IR89 - back in action.

Post by **Piazza_man** » Fri Mar 15, 2013 10:17 pm

PMs sent.

Post by **Piazza_man** » Sat Mar 16, 2013 11:29 am

Another pm m8.

Post by **Piazza_man** » Sun Mar 17, 2013 3:30 pm

ImpulseRocket89 · Post by **ImpulseRocket89** » Mon Mar 18, 2013 4:26 pm

No need to let me know lol. i check every day now

Post by **Piazza_man** » Mon Mar 18, 2013 8:13 pm

Wasn't sure. Or you can do what I've done and change a setting in your profile so that the forum server sends you an automated message to your nominated email notifying you that you have a new message. This setting is in the preferences section. That way you don't have to be vigilant about checking your inbox everyday.

ImpulseRocket89 · Post by **ImpulseRocket89** » Wed Mar 20, 2013 8:31 am

eyecon wrote:Wasn't sure. Or you can do what I've done and change a setting in your profile so that the forum server sends you an automated message to your nominated email notifying you that you have a new message. This setting is in the preferences section. That way you don't have to be vigilant about checking your inbox everyday.

I get the update lol.

ImpulseRocket89 · Post by **ImpulseRocket89** » Fri Mar 22, 2013 1:43 am

In other news, I am in the process of ordering SPAX shocks for my project, and figured now would be a good time to order some custom springs as well.

The shocks from the UK were quoted at $398.95 USD and I am assuming the freight charges will be in excess of $100 on top of it. Honestly though, considering people spend that much or more on other sport shocks it's really not that bad.

The springs put me in a dilemma though. I tried to find that ridiculous spring compressor tool with little luck. So, if anybody has any suggestions or other methods to get the front springs in and out of the car please let me know. As a last resort I am going to attempt to lower the lower control arms using a jack (which is obviously extremely unsafe...) by unbolting the lower ball joint and rear bushing. I will probably loosen said items first so I don't have to have my face shoved in the wheel well with a spring as I attempt to get one, the other, or both freed up.

Also, while we are on the subject of suspension bushes, anybody have a source for the rear trailing arm, panhard bar, and HBL rear end link bushings? The front radius rod bushing as well?

Post by **Piazza_man** » Fri Mar 22, 2013 8:35 am

I've been down this road last year and I have replacement urethane bushings for my AU spec rear end. They are slightly cut down versions from other vehicle makes but will work perfectly. I have part numbers and cut-down specs for upper and lower rear trailing arms, but you may want to take exact measurements of your bushing bores and pins to ensure compatibility:

I haven't put this up on my own thread because they haven't been changed over yet. Not sure about your HBL setup, but if you can take detailed measurements of the bushing bore ø and length, and centre pin measurements too. I'll then see if I have a match.

I don't have anything for the panhard rod yet. I cant do anything until I take measurements of the bushings when I have it removed to be shortened, as you will have to when you lower your car. I will be checking to see if there is anything aftermarket from Gemini's first.

As for radius rods I had a urethane set made up, but again not installed yet. Wedgenut had his friend in NZ machine them up for me, so you may want to try contacting him. This is the end result:

Or you can try and buy a set from a Japanese Yahoo auction site. They have a set available that look exactly like the ones pictured above:
http://auctions.search.yahoo.co.jp/sear ... 2084302291

The only catch with that is that you need to be registered, but to be registered you need to be a citizen. To get around this you need to get in touch with an intermediate who can buy this stuff for you and can send them to you. I have used him before and I can highly recommend him. I can't think of his name or email address right now but if you're interested I'll dig it up. It's on this forum somewhere.

ImpulseRocket89 · Post by **ImpulseRocket89** » Fri Mar 22, 2013 9:13 am

Heck, for all of that work I might just have all of the bushings machined out of Derlin. I can get the bar stock cheap enough ($27/ft in black)....

In any case it may be a little bit before I get around to dropping the rear suspension to do some measuring, so you may get a PM one day asking for the specs. Rebuilding the suspension isn't a high priority at the moment.

As far as the Panhard bar goes, I was thinking about fabricating an adjustable one using spherical rod ends/heim joints. Since this car is more toy than daily driver I am not putting as much focus in on NVH and ride quality lol.

Thanks for showing me there are still some potential options out there.

Post by **Piazza_man** » Fri Mar 22, 2013 10:17 am

I thought of going the adjustable panhard rod too, but I figure this is probably an overkill for my situation, as I'm happy with the ride height anyway and don't plan on changing it.

I'll be putting up all info re replacement nolathane bushes in due coarse after I have tested them on my own car first.

ImpulseRocket89 · Post by **ImpulseRocket89** » Sat Mar 23, 2013 11:36 am

Well, either way I will figure it out. I am going to start pulling the suspension apart tomorrow if I have the chance.

Until then, I got to work on getting the fuel system started.

Got the tank stripped down, but not show in this picture is the two valves on top removed along with all of the padding. At least now I can send it off to be cleaned and sealed.

I also started work on the fuel pump hanger/bracket. That -8AN bulkead fitting is rather large in diameter, so the hole had to be pretty darn big too. I still have to clearance other things for the nut with a bit of grinding. The wiring plug thing on that side is also in the way so I have to think of an alternative. Most likely a grommet of some kind to pass the wiring through.

Then there was the greatest disappointment of my day. I waited 7 weeks and spent $1100+ on my Ron Davis Radiator. It was supposed to be larger than stock... Guess what, the assembly guys didnt make it larger. So, I paid $1100+ for a stock replacement radiator with a fan. NOT happy right now. I left a rather angry message with the tech support guy to let him know my displeasure. They can pay to ship it back to themselves and then ship the new one to me, and I want a damned discount or immediate turn around service.

Otherwise, it's a damn nice unit and really well built. Just worthless.

Post by **Piazza_man** » Sat Mar 23, 2013 12:54 pm

I agree. Nice looking radiator, but did you want to make it longer or thicker? What size is that fan?

IZU069 · Post by **IZU069** » Sat Mar 23, 2013 2:01 pm

Geez, I haven't heard of Derlin since discussing endoplasmic reticulum with females - often in conjunction with their pyloric sphincter - a small ring of muscle of a centimeter or a few in diameter.

But beware if increasing the hardness of suspension rubbers - especially to something like Derlin.
Too hard and there is no give, and that can result in metal suspension breakage (bolts or arms etc).

Years ago Bellett enthusiasts replaced IRS wishbone rubbers with (I think...) neoprene. That led to breakage - not a pleasant experience.
However upgrading merely one and leaving the other as rubber overcame the problem yet still gave the desired less soggy or wallowing rear-end behaviour.
I know similar things have been experience with front ends - especially dual-wishbone types as favoured by Isuzu (and other good handling cars).

PS - I think the bolts through the upgraded rubbers were similarly matched and upgraded - ie, lower hardness.

ImpulseRocket89 · Post by **ImpulseRocket89** » Sat Mar 23, 2013 5:03 pm

eyecon wrote:I agree. Nice looking radiator, but did you want to make it longer or thicker? What size is that fan?

The Radiator was SUPPOSED to be thicker, and the extra thickness was to be added to the front of the radiator to maintain engine clearance etc. The rest of the dimensions are exactly to factory size.

Instead it is exactly stock in thickness because somebody is an idiot. Who would spend a ton of money on a custom radiator for a racing application for what is essentially an aluminum stock replacement?!?! I get to stew over this all weekend until I can call on Monday and grouch at somebody.

The fan is a 16" Low Profile SPAL unit, which wasn't really that expensive or a big part of the cost. He told me the fan would only cost about $110 with the "custom" mounting brackets being another $50.
Link for Fan info. http://www.spalusa.com/pdf/30100400_SPEC.PDF#view=FitH

I just wish they would have gotten it right the first time. It was supposed to be nearly 2.75" thick at the cores with a high efficiency 2 1/2" multi-row core. Ron Davis cores are pretty much the top of the line as far as cooling efficiency goes.

IZU069 wrote:
But beware if increasing the hardness of suspension rubbers - especially to something like Derlin.
Too hard and there is no give, and that can result in metal suspension breakage (bolts or arms etc).

I was being mildly sarcastic with the Delrin bushings lol. I will most likely go with urethane and add zerk fittings to the trailing arms so I can add grease to keep them quiet.

IZU069 · Post by **IZU069** » Sun Mar 24, 2013 10:50 am

I'd be quite sus about the radiator, especially since it's Al, hence lower thermal conductivity than Cu.
The metallic finish doesn't help either - the matt black on copper being far more effective.