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Posted: Tue Jan 28, 2020 4:11 pm
by Piazza_man
Posted: Sat Jun 20, 2020 6:47 pm
by Piazza_man
Posted: Sat Oct 24, 2020 7:00 pm
by Piazza_man
Had a chance to deal with the rear parcel shelf the other day. The original elastic cords located inside the parcel shelf have perished and are no longer pulling the cords. So for those who are contemplating the same thing here’s a guide how to replace the worn out elastic cords.
To fix this I bought about 2meters of new elastic cord from a haberdashery shop for a couple of bucks, a small pack of shoelace aglets from eBay for a few bucks, and 1meter length of 10mm heat shrink tubing (I’ll explain later).
Removing the original elastic cords is relatively simple. First, flip the parcel shelf and remove the metal channel from the runner with it’s 3 screws. Next, carefully remove the plastic retainer clips on each end that the cord slips through. Next, pull out the plastic ends from the parcel shelf housing. When you pull them out and open it up you’ll see how the elastic cords are connected and crimped with aglets.
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Remove-cut the old elastic cords and cut the new elastic cords to be about 3/4 length of the parcel shelf runner. Attach the aglets in the same fashion as the original ones. The only thing I changed was to tie a small knot on the end of the new elastic cord that gets secured inside the plastic end instead of attaching an aglet (pic showing the original elastic cord).
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You’ll need to feed both new elastic cords at the same time. I used a wire coat hanger which I straightened and attached the new cords to one end. The problem I then faced when I kept trying to feed the wire through the metal runner was that the elastic cords kept snagging little burrs along the inside of the runner. It was obvious the inside of the metal runner/tube was very rough. Definitely not ideal! After some head scratching I came up with a super easy fix. Insert the 10mm heat shrink tubing inside the runner and cut off the excess. This provides a smooth shield for the elastic cords to slide against inside the runner. Now feed the coat hanger wire through and attach the ends of the elastic cords.
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As the new cords will be shorter than the runner/tube be sure not to let go whilst tying it all in as it will fling back deep inside the runner, and you might have to re feed the elastic cord again.
Posted: Tue Oct 27, 2020 9:50 am
by Piazzish
Im checking in on here regularly! Nice to get some tips and follow your progress
Posted: Mon Nov 30, 2020 9:12 pm
by Piazza_man
Glad to see these kind of posts are of use to others. My next post will be about upgrading the standard front door speaker setup to the HBL ported versions, with some additional tweaks.
Posted: Thu Mar 11, 2021 9:11 pm
by Piazza_man
Checking in with another update on my Piazza. Some time ago I replaced the old and worn gear selector boot with a custom leather boot for a much shorter gear selector.
- Old boot
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- New boot
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Posted: Thu Mar 11, 2021 10:32 pm
by Piazza_man
Posted: Fri Mar 12, 2021 4:17 pm
by Piazza_man
Continuing...
The rears are 4” Focal K2 ES100K 2-way component speakers running at 60W RMS. Very sexy looking, and almost a shame I cover it with speaker covers.
- 4” Focal K2 ES 100K rear speakers
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.
While the door cards/trim are off I used the opportunity to thoroughly clean them. Here you can clearly see the difference between clean, and not so clean. I thought they looked alright until I started comparing the difference.
- Interior trims
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Next up was sound deadening. The rear seating area was treated with commercial grade 100mm thick ultra dense sound absorbing material. I crammed it in every cavity available, and then added Dynamat sound deadener on the wheel arches and around the rear speaker metal frame for good measure. (Forgot to take a pic of that)
- Black 100mm UHD sound absorption
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Same deal for the front doors. Both inner skins were covered in Dynamat (to absorb vibration), followed by 3mm Dynapad (to absorb sound) on the inner skin only.
- RH Front door
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- RH Front door
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End result looks factory and clean.
- LH front door speaker
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For a more stealth look I chose to place the Focal tweeters here
- Tweeter
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- LH Focal tweeter
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Posted: Fri Mar 12, 2021 8:02 pm
by Piazza_man
Continuing...
Also installed a Pioneer IB flat 12” sealed shallow-mount enclosure single voice coil sub woofer. Tucks in nicely behind the rear seats, and still plenty of room in the boot. Speaking of which, the amp in the boot is an old school Boss Audio 1000w unit that came with the car when I bought it nearly 10 years ago. I’ll be looking to upgrade the amp soon, but even with the old amp struggling to supply enough power to the 10 speakers, it still sounds awesome at high volume. Crystal clear sound with good base. Mind you the amp gets so hot after a loud and hard session that I can’t even touch the amp for too long.
- 12” Pioneer ib flat sub
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Posted: Fri Mar 12, 2021 8:48 pm
by Piazza_man
Posted: Fri Mar 12, 2021 8:57 pm
by Piazza_man
Posted: Sat Mar 13, 2021 7:37 am
by Piazzish
Hot damn! Loving this
Did you ditch the rubber part at the bottom of the B-pillar covers ? Wasnt shure if its there or not on the photo..
Posted: Sat Mar 13, 2021 5:38 pm
by Piazza_man
The rubber trims on the bottom of the B pillar cover are definitely there. I wasn’t able to remove them, along with the side rubber trims before the respray. The little top rubber trims were the only pieces I was able to carefully remove, which were glued back on afterwards.
Posted: Thu Jun 03, 2021 11:21 pm
by Nismo
Man this project is just awesome to follow!
Keep it up!
Posted: Sun Jun 06, 2021 7:26 pm
by Piazza_man
Cheers Tomas, more stuff coming soon. Just haven’t finished it yet.