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This is what helped kill my engine but she went well while it lasted, should go good once i get her back on the road

Looks like alot of fun. T03 yeah? Id really recommend throwing a 4ZE1 Rodeo dist. into it along with a programmable ECU like a MegaSquirt or something.

Youve also got alot of oil around the air filter area like my car did - do you know what it is?

Nick-

shit man how much boost were u runnin?

only got to try it for 1 hour, the turbo was stuffed and i didnt know, it pressurised the sump, blew the dip stick out and i lost all my oil, hence my engine is now seized. The car went great with it, there was heaps less lag and it went better with the t3 running 9 psi then it did with the stanard turbo running 14psi, there is was no oil leaking there it is becuase of all the oil that came out of the dipstick hole!
Why do you recomend another dizzy, what is so much better, is it hard to hook up, and are they hard to come by?

brendan wrote:Why do you recomend another dizzy, what is so much better, is it hard to hook up, and are they hard to come by?

Its a Crank Angle Sensor type, downside is you need an ECU to run it. Would be a lot better than the fixed curve Dizzy thats in the Piazza as std. But youd have to invest in a fuel and spark ECU that will run this distributor.
If the ECU can adjust the timing you get more go and its safer for the motor, provided the ECU is tuned and mapped properly.

Ive got one here that i could sell, its out of a 2.6L 4ZE1 Jackaroo. Ive even got a New cap to go with it as a spare. The caps are a Holden only part and not cheap. You can buy a Bosch replacment rotor for these dizzys cheap at Repco/Bursons etc.

Cheers. Bob.

shit any idea what the max boost u can run on standard injectors im runnin 10psi at the mo using a vf8 boost comes on quite soft

i had 14 psi running on my std turbo and had no problems, just lots of lag, but i also had a cracked manifold, hence the new high flow manifold and t3 turbo

Is that a R32 Skyline turbo?
The drain is supposed to be at the bottom, the way you've got it there would've kept the thing full of oil and probably did something bad to the oil seals. You can rotate the centre bit and keep the housings in the same positions.

I was about to say the same thing Bugle.

I would put money on that being the cause of the problem. The oil cannot be pumped out of the turbo by the standard pressure pump , you need to run a seperate scavenge pump to suck the oil through if you want to run the drain in that way.

i didnt know that, could have been the cause for the turbo blowing heaps of smoke and causing crankcase pressure? Which in turn helped me to seize my engine
It is a rb20 turbo of a skyline r32

Dunno bout the crankcase pressure but it definitely would've caused the turbo to put heaps of oil out past the seals..

okay need help again,
Engine has been rebuild car is back together, with new second hand turbo oil line at the top, car doesnt blow smoke all seems to run fine BUT The turbo is getting really hot and i just took it for a run tonight and when i got home found that the turbo, manifold and exhaust glowing red!. All i can guess it that the turbo is not getting cooling?
The oil ling has been custom made with proper braided oil line with all the usally connections, The only thing i am not sure about is the old turbo had three water inlets. one of the block, one of the bottom radiator hose and one into the radiator, i am using the one of the block and the one into the bottom radaitor hose.
Will post up pics 2 morrow, any help would be greating appreaciated
Cheers
Brendan

my turbo and manfold did the whole glowing-red-hot thing when my head was cracked...

Is your timing set right? Just noticed this thread http://www.performanceforums.com/forums ... t=67207284
Also you should make a heat shield for the turbo..