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wtb Manual gearbox
Posted: Tue Jan 23, 2007 9:25 pm
yeah well you all know the story, took the car down to eastern creek (1/4 mile) on wednesday had no probs did a new pb 15.105@ 144km's
But while i was driving the car home, the car started making a noise, didnt know what was wrong just that the noise went away when the clutch was in, so i pulled the gearbox out and found that the input shaft was noisy to turn and was rough, so i am sure that the box is gone.
has anyone got a box i can buy?
Posted: Tue Jan 23, 2007 11:16 pm
You've probably just wrecked the drive gear bearing can probably get away with just replacing that. You'd be lucky to find a gear box where that hasn't started to happen.. Wonder if MUA's have a stronger bearing?
Posted: Wed Jan 24, 2007 11:23 pm
mine has been makin the same noise for a while it was diagnosed by wedge as the input shaft bearing so not a major drama
Posted: Thu Jan 25, 2007 7:13 pm
Yeah its the input shaft bearing but not the one you guys think it is. Its the one in the front of the main shaft that the back end of the input shaft goes in to. Usually its not the bearing its usualy the hard facing gone off the shaft. Throw the box away.
The one in my Rodeo was the same (exact same box as the Piazza ratios and all), had a nice whine to it. I shandied up 50/50 engine and gear oil and filled it nearly right up. If i hadnt pinched the seal putting the tailshft in it would probably still be in my ute today. That said i didnt take it out because it had stopped working, it just got way too noisey. After it was run without oil for a bit the noises got louder and louder even after i had put oil back in it.
I say leave it in till it blows. Will be a while away if you keep the oli up and change it regular.
I would replace it with an MUA box out of a Rodeo. Shifter is a pain the butt to sort out but at least you know it will hack it.
Posted: Thu Jan 25, 2007 7:37 pm
The needle bearing there?
Surely you could get the surfaces machined out and sleeved.
Posted: Thu Jan 25, 2007 8:42 pm
Bugle wrote:The needle bearing there?
Surely you could get the surfaces machined out and sleeved.
Maybe you could would depend how much guts is left in the shaft.
Plus the sleve you put in would have to be some super hard shit.
Posted: Thu Jan 25, 2007 8:46 pm
Which do you think would be tougher bugle??? T5 or MUA????
Im looking at doing a bellhousing for the Falcon T5. That would give a replacment box for $300 plus the cost of the bellhousing machining.
Mainly doing it out of interest. Ive got onto a few cheap MUA boxes and they are all lind up in my shed.
Brendan, Look and ye shal find. Even if you have to buy a complete drive line. Keep the box and sell off the motor and manifolds etc.
Posted: Fri Jan 26, 2007 12:13 pm
Could probably get sleeves of harder material than the original bits.
MUA and T5 are probably similar strength? Get a better choice of ratios with a T5 though probably.
Posted: Tue Jan 30, 2007 4:13 pm
well the gearbox shop got back to me today, they said that 2nd gear cluster was smashed and that the box cant be fixed
they also said that if i can find a rodeo or shuttle box they can put those internals in my box but didnt know how far off the ratios would be.
If anybody has a box please contact me! 0422669759
Car is up for rego in 1 month need to get it back on the road for a rwc
Posted: Tue Jan 30, 2007 4:20 pm
i do have one but im allll the way in perth so i guess that doesnt help lol
Posted: Tue Jan 30, 2007 5:32 pm
You could grab a Gemini box, really cheap and TE has pretty much similar ratios according to specs i've seen. TF/TG has shitty ratios. Then get a Gemini universal joint put onto your standard tail shaft.. That way you can swap the sliding yoke between coarse/medium Gemini manual boxes or a fine spline for the later Isuzu boxes. I had this done to my tailshaft and am now running a coarse spline box..
The sandwich plate on Gemini boxes is aluminium but who the fark has ever broken one? You could also use a Gemini diesel box which apparently has steel shift forks.
Or Rick had a box a while back which I was gonna get but forgot about, but it needed a full rebuild as well I think.. But as long as no parts are broken it could be used.
Also Bob posted here about the KB 4ZD1 Rodeo box which is the same http://isuzupiazza.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=688
Not actually completely the same, 5th and reverse are different but the rest is the same, that means the countershaft and 2nd gear will be the same as a Piazza therefore a suitable parts donor if you can't find a box in good condition.
Posted: Wed Jan 31, 2007 1:51 pm
pm Virtual-R or Rodeobob, i forget whos got it now, but one of them has a tailshaft already modified to suit Gemini 5spd into Piazza.
And theres nothing wrong with Gemini box's. Mines still going and ive abused the absolute fuck out of it.
Posted: Wed Jan 31, 2007 6:04 pm
only major prob is finding one
2.3 only came out for about 2 or so years so there arnt that many of em
Posted: Wed Jan 31, 2007 9:33 pm
I say go the Gemini box.
They are just so easy to find.
Check the unis are interchangable and hunt up a Jackaroo tailshaft and get it (or the front half) modified, then you can put Rodeo yolks on it. Jackaroo uses the same yolk as the Piazza, the 2wd Rodeos used both the coarse and fine small yolk.
It will be your best option short of a T5 or Supra box etc.
The Piazza/Rodeo/Shuttle boxes were a bit fragile with the designe flaw.
Posted: Wed Jan 31, 2007 10:36 pm
Are Jackaroo/Rodeo uni joints rebuildable?
Geminis probably better due to there being so many more Geminis around wreckers easier to find the different splines..
Also gotta keep the drive gear bearing retainer off the original Piazza box because a Gemini box uses a different casting which is missing the bit for the hydraulic clutch fork pivot ball mount.
Yeah the main design flaw is 2nd gear is too bloody narrow, same thing happened to my box stripped some teeth of 2nd.. Good to see they fixed it with the MUA (2nd gear nearly twice as wide looking at drawings), too bad they didn't do it before they decided to turbo the Piazza. Wonder if the drive gear bearing works any better?