F-Link... issue

General Bellett, Gemini 75-98, Piazza 81-93, Bellel, Florian, 117 Coupe, Minx, Aska technical discussion.
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speedracerles
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F-Link... issue

Post by speedracerles » Mon Oct 11, 2010 1:32 pm

So Im trying to get the car to start, I got a new batterie for the car and still no power, Let me know what Im missing. or not doing right.


So How do I fix the problem?

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Post by IZU069 » Mon Oct 11, 2010 2:03 pm

As taken from Coolent leak....what to do?....

As I see it, you only have power to your ignition switch but only for the ignition coil, cigar lighters, meters, maybe turn flashers & reverse lights.
Though the main relay for the ECU etc should "click", you will not have power for ECU, ignition, wipers, windows, lights, hazards, room & stop lamps, rear defogger....

The black 3-way to battery should be ok with 3 x 15A fuses.
The white 2-way with a 25A fuse.

IMO it's not worth using the original style flinks - they are out of fashion for a reason. Change to plastics instead...



My suggestion was earlier in the above link - see Coolent leak....what to do? - R9....


Otherwise the simplest is to simply replace with traditional flinks....


Who solved the original flink problem for you?
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Post by speedracerles » Mon Oct 11, 2010 2:57 pm

I did my self, one of the FLink wires was loose and that was all... So I pushed it back in and the car started right up, So naturaly I thought that was what happen againg but not the case.

The info came from here as far as how to fix it. Im not that hands on with these cars so you have to understand that ok.
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Post by IZU069 » Mon Oct 11, 2010 4:32 pm

Ok.
I just don't understand how it started with that RED loop - it should be 2 browns or a red & brown to the battery +12 AFAIK.

Reinspecting - the white connector looks ok though it does NOT look like a flink from the black +12V connector to the white block - that should be a Black flink (26A) with a Brown (13A) looped to the other (white) terminal.


Do you have a DMM (multimeter) or test light?

And do you have the "piazzamanual.pdf" (900 pages; ~72MB)?
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Post by speedracerles » Tue Oct 12, 2010 12:40 am

I do have a manual, I can go buy a tester to see whats going on and give you a better answer as far as what is going on... will that help things more...?
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Post by IZU069 » Tue Oct 12, 2010 12:49 am

A tester should show if +12V is available at that red "loopback".
I'm betting it isn't - at least not as a heavy current.

IMO the red link should be extended to to battery +12V and a 15A (preferably; else 20A) fuse can be used for the other side (to the battery).


Check too that the battery +12V to white connector is a fuse/flink and not just a plain wire.
In someways it isn't critical - it's generally the main alternator to battery connection, but that wire (and one that goes to the main fuse box) should be fused in case if a short (ie, protect the cable).


PS - though a test light is simple enough, I'd suggest a good DMM.
Usually available from ~$10 and shouldn't be more than about $20.

I recommend one with an audible continuity tester. That might be combined with a diode tester.
Plus the usual dc & ac voltage, and current up to 10A.
And resistance.

(Forget expensive "automotive" DMMs with dwell angle and RPM etc.)
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Post by IZU069 » Wed Oct 13, 2010 9:12 am

Ok Speedy,
Attached are 2 pics.

The first is from the aforementioned "piazzamanual.pdf" which should be available on CD from this site... (With thanks to P.... Esq. who painstakingly scanned and collated its 900 pages and later donated the works....)

Though lacking quality from later image processing, it shows the Australian 1986 4ZC1-t Piazza's main power distribution.
It is one of the few pics that shows ALL 5 flinks - the co-connected three 0.3 Browns and the co-connected 1.0 Black & 0.3 Brown - with their respective Black (D) and White (A) connectors respectively.


The 2nd pic is the 3-flink Black connector assembly but with its White connector missing from the 1.0 Black flink wire.
The hanging black flink wire should terminate at the "top" #1 terminal of white connector A which also has a (brown) flink looped to A terminal #2.

WARNING:
- Flink wire colors are not necessarily the same as those sold for flink-wire replacement (eg, Narva colors are different!).

With thanks yet again to ImageShack.us.

Image

harness/downstream end ------------------------------ battery +12V end
Image


Hopefully you can figure out the connector and pin mapping from the "circuit" or wiring diagram.
EG - In your pic, only (black connector) D1 has power connected. Hence you have power the Ign Switch only. (The "1" may be missing from the diagram, but since it isn't "2" or "3".....)


The battery-end of the black 3-flink connector is not shown diagramatically. Although hard to tell - especially from its end-on photo (bottom RH of pic) - it is a single contact that mates with a single male connector that links/attaches to the battery +12V post. (It has 3 prongs.)


Although in many ways a great design, it is prone to unreliability after several years (and one score!).
Plus those wire type flinks were abandoned years ago in favour superior and safer plastic flinks.
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