Changing bearings on rear axle

General Bellett, Gemini 75-98, Piazza 81-93, Bellel, Florian, 117 Coupe, Minx, Aska technical discussion.
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ozbj
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Changing bearings on rear axle

Post by ozbj » Thu May 05, 2011 8:41 pm

Dumb question but here goes

Dont have access to a sufficiently large press (as per the workshop manual) to push bearing off the rear axle.
Although its only really a difference in terminology, I set up a 10t hydraulic puller to attempt to "pull" the bearing - NOT A HOPE IN HELL.

I've seen some references that suggest breaking (as in destroying) the retainer with a cold chisel.

Any hints/clues please?

cheers
Barry

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Post by IZU069 » Fri May 06, 2011 9:22 pm

If it's heat treated (ie, hardened 'cos it has a oil seal running over it), then grind 2 sides first - just a bit (thru the hardening).

Then or if not hardened, rest the ring bottom against solid metal (anvil is perfect; otherwise car ramps, an engine block, your neighbor's kitchen bench or bumper bar, etc...) and the strike hard with a cold chisel on the top.
Rotate 180° and repeat.
It should be easier to force off, or even fall off by itself.


And do not heat the new ones when putting them on - unless specifically instructed to do so for those sleeves.
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wedgenut
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Post by wedgenut » Mon May 09, 2011 10:48 pm

The TT axles are different as the oil seal is integral in the bearing so all you have is the mild steel locking collar, same deal applies though. Grind or cut most of the way through and then split with a chisel. Put a split bearing plate behind the bearing and use two long threaded rods on a "t" bar or a piece of scrap plate and wind it off.

Then there is the butchers way. Wrap the bearing in your mums best white towel, rest one side of the bearing on an anvil and smack the other side with your biggest hammer. The outer cage will split. do the same on the other side and the outer cage is gone, pluck out the balls and cage and do the grind trick to the inner race and split with a chisel. It will slide off.
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