Piazza "What Da..." Files..
Nick,
My number 1 has been off for over 7 months now with no bad effects. I have a turbo timer on mine. I replaced the water and oil banjos on my turbo about 6 months ago as a precaution. Cost me just over $5 each for the 4. good thing too the standard on has ony 1 hole and the replacements have 3 holes.
New what the? I have taken that thing off too and have seen no difference in the way the car drives.
Each time I do some thing I disconect the wiring first drive around normally and see if anything happens with the car. I f nothing happens I take it off all together and see again.
Matt
My number 1 has been off for over 7 months now with no bad effects. I have a turbo timer on mine. I replaced the water and oil banjos on my turbo about 6 months ago as a precaution. Cost me just over $5 each for the 4. good thing too the standard on has ony 1 hole and the replacements have 3 holes.
New what the? I have taken that thing off too and have seen no difference in the way the car drives.
Each time I do some thing I disconect the wiring first drive around normally and see if anything happens with the car. I f nothing happens I take it off all together and see again.
Matt
Check out my stuff again. got to go dont want to toss it in the bin. please buy it.
http://search.ebay.com.au/_W0QQsassZaidenspaidenQQhtZ-1
http://search.ebay.com.au/_W0QQsassZaidenspaidenQQhtZ-1
The way the new thing works is it pulls against the vac pot wastegate actuator to keep it closed longer and build more boost. So having it there if its working is a good thing.
So the electric thingy over rides the boost level set by the diaghfram, so it must have a bit of pull strength to be able to hold the wastegate closed against both the vac pot and exhaust pressure.
If you unhook the cable it wont flop as the vac one is still hooked up. You could remove the electric and fit up a bleed type to the vac control. Or find out whats going on and keep both.
Id hook up a good boost guage and see what going on before changing it. As suggested unhook it and see whats what before removing it completely.
I wonder if theres something that can be done in the computer circuitry to make it build way higher boost than its meant to. And also have it so its switch on and off. Instant dual boost modes.
If yours is knackered Bugle, rip it to bits for a look see.
Cheers. Bob.
So the electric thingy over rides the boost level set by the diaghfram, so it must have a bit of pull strength to be able to hold the wastegate closed against both the vac pot and exhaust pressure.
If you unhook the cable it wont flop as the vac one is still hooked up. You could remove the electric and fit up a bleed type to the vac control. Or find out whats going on and keep both.
Id hook up a good boost guage and see what going on before changing it. As suggested unhook it and see whats what before removing it completely.
I wonder if theres something that can be done in the computer circuitry to make it build way higher boost than its meant to. And also have it so its switch on and off. Instant dual boost modes.
If yours is knackered Bugle, rip it to bits for a look see.
Cheers. Bob.
Too many Piazzas to little money.
Currently unemployed. Watch this space.
Currently unemployed. Watch this space.
i thought the solenoid and cable pulled the wastegate open, piazzas have a knock sensor under the inlet manifold between cyls 2 and 3, they also have a knock computer, my idea was that the knock computer could lower boost via the wastegate directly with the solenoid if the engines detonated (pinged). if the cable controll all bost levels, then why does it even have a diaphram actuator?
im not sure but i think the knock computer could also retard the ignition timing by the 2 wires coming out of the igniter pack on the coil (green plug) by intercepting the signal. they run fine with this disconnected too
as for the blower aimed at the dizzy- crazy
it probably turns on at a set engine temp, and it only comes on once the car is switched off because the motor heat soakes
im not sure but i think the knock computer could also retard the ignition timing by the 2 wires coming out of the igniter pack on the coil (green plug) by intercepting the signal. they run fine with this disconnected too
as for the blower aimed at the dizzy- crazy
it probably turns on at a set engine temp, and it only comes on once the car is switched off because the motor heat soakes
Nah the wastegate actuator opens the wastegate, the cable pulls it shut to give more boost. I think the idea is that the normal wastegate actuator is set to 7psi. Then when you floor it it pulls the wastegate shut a bit to give you more boost. Yeah the turbo computer does take a signal from the knock computer so it probably wouldn't increase the boost if it detects knocking.
Yeah i'd say the igniter is a special one that can retard the ignition if the knock computer says so..
Yeah i'd say the igniter is a special one that can retard the ignition if the knock computer says so..
It wouldnt be able to change the angle (retard) at all. It could possibly do something with the dwell/ignighter function that the ignighter module is there for.Bugle wrote:Nah the wastegate actuator opens the wastegate, the cable pulls it shut to give more boost. I think the idea is that the normal wastegate actuator is set to 7psi. Then when you floor it it pulls the wastegate shut a bit to give you more boost. Yeah the turbo computer does take a signal from the knock computer so it probably wouldn't increase the boost if it detects knocking.
Yeah i'd say the igniter is a special one that can retard the ignition if the knock computer says so..
Id say that it being connected in there is for a signal more so than as a safety function.
It may have to read something before it will switch ok to the boost computer. Or the other way round, gets the signal to tell it enough is enough.
Bob.
Too many Piazzas to little money.
Currently unemployed. Watch this space.
Currently unemployed. Watch this space.