Vibration

B52 · Post by **B52** » Sun Jan 14, 2007 3:02 pm

I am getting heavy vibration through the steering wheel and the dash surround on idle.
Have replaced the drive train which did have some play in it and did reduce some vibration.
Any other ideas?
Cheers
David

Bugle · Post by **Bugle** » Sun Jan 14, 2007 4:04 pm

The engine is misfiring constantly? Sounds like a WRX?

B52 · Post by **B52** » Sun Jan 14, 2007 6:27 pm

Is firing fine. Engine is running o.k. Idle sometimes changes between 8000 and 9000 revs. Thinking it could be engine mount or steering rack problem.

Post by **wedgenut** » Sun Jan 14, 2007 8:03 pm

between 8000 and 9000 revs.

Jeez no wonder its vibrating!!!!! I take it that is just a typo and you mean 800 and 900. Either that or you got a chainsaw motor under the bonnet.
You could be right with the engine mount thing but a good one to check is the rear mount on the gearbox crossmember. When they let go (usually after years of oil saturation) the upper metal parts sink through the rubber and can contact the metal of the cross member. It make a shit of a vibration often mistaken for the exhaust touching the body which is another thing to check of course.

If all those are eliminated borrow a vibration pen off someone and poke around for the cause. If the motor is definitely lumpy running and all other things are equal like timing etc and even compressions on all cylinders I would start to suspect a loose flywheel or stuffed spigot bearing.

madmike · Post by **madmike** » Sun Jan 14, 2007 8:20 pm

there goes these aus boys pickin on a correctly designed engine again !!!!

madmike · Post by **madmike** » Sun Jan 14, 2007 8:21 pm

there goes these aus boys pickin on a correctly designed engine again !!!!

Post by **wedgenut** » Sun Jan 14, 2007 9:11 pm

The reason scoobyroos have pistons flapping out sideways instead of up and down like any normal sane engine is because it suits the japs slitty little eyes which work great side to side but don't see much in the up and down world. That is why they invented wide screen tv's.

They learned the flat engine idea from the Germans who have a similar problem due to very stiff necks..that is also why they like tennis but not volley ball....am I right Chris?

This abuse will of course earn me a firm slapping from QYKCHK

piazza-crx · Post by **piazza-crx** » Sun Jan 14, 2007 11:34 pm

Checked Engine Mounts??

I had that for a while. cant remember wot I did to make it go away, but I think it either had something to do with the Auto trans, or the neutral safety switch position.

madmike · Post by **madmike** » Mon Jan 15, 2007 7:35 pm

wrx's dont rattle they purrr!!!

madmike · Post by **madmike** » Mon Jan 15, 2007 7:36 pm

ohhh alex i'm telling on you!!!!!!!

I seem to rember u takin qykchk's wrx for a haul down the motorway!!

u little boy racer u!!

Post by **wedgenut** » Mon Jan 15, 2007 8:32 pm

TRUE, only scared i was gonna scratch it and have the shedevil take my warm squashy bits for earings.

Can't compare it to a Piazza though as it is from a whole different planet and time zone but impressive i do admit...grudgingly

Bugle · Post by **Bugle** » Mon Jan 15, 2007 11:41 pm

lol wasn't having a dig at WRX's, just once my Piazza had a misfire which went away after I put new plugs in but it sounded exactly like a WRX, engine shook around heaps at idle though.

Dunno how it would shake up the steering column so badly, maybe if an engine mount had collapsed and the engine was hitting something in the steering system..

B52 · Post by **B52** » Tue Jan 16, 2007 11:02 am

Thanks guys I'll check it out.

Yes it was a typo 800 -900 revs.

Would be impressed if it idled at 8000 revs!!!

piazza-crx · Post by **piazza-crx** » Tue Jan 16, 2007 2:42 pm

Actually just remembered it was something to do with the neutral starter switch. It needs to be in exactly the right position. You can actually try it by moving the auto shifted just slightly up or down without fully taking it out of the P postion... see if it stop the bad idling...

Post by **wedgenut** » Tue Jan 16, 2007 6:10 pm

OOH! ER! didn't realise it was a slush box we were talking about. Autofuckits DO idle rough if the selector is a bit out of adjustment as the manual valve can let a bit of oil pass through where it shouldn't trying to exert pressure on one of the drive clutches. The same thing can happen if one of the little itsy bitsy plastic orifice check balls gets so worn it isn't correctly sealing off one of the passages in the valve body.
If that ends up being the the issue you want to address (brave man) drop the pan and very carefully remove the valve body. You need to disconnect the kick down cable at the same time and be careful to only remove the bolts holding the valve body in place. Then you can stick on a bench upside down and strip it for cleaning. They collect a lot of sludge, note where all the balls live (if the haven't all disappeared already) Digital cam is good at all stages. The balls and gaskets are cheap to buy and just doing that will give your comutamatic a whole new lease on life. Get lots of beers in, it is an easier job if you are totally pissed and irrational because thats how they were when they designed the bloody thing.

I've done Toyota, Nissan and Jaguar (BW) auto boxes over the years but they pale in comparison to the Aisen Warner, mind you some toyota's, volvo's and a few others use the same box so that is why parts are not too bad to get. The only one that ever beat me down to a blubbering wreck was a box from a bloody Austin Kimberley or Tasman type thing and it was the work of satan.

Vibration

Vibration

Vibration.