vehicle wont start help!

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piazzanoob
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vehicle wont start help!

Post by piazzanoob »

since pulling out the carpet and seats and radio unit and all other bits to get carpet out i have since disconnected i think is a immobilizer or car alarm old 80s style after market one which i thought didn't work and pretty sure it doesn't since then i haven't been able to start it dash lights work but when turn over nothing happens but hearing fuel from fuel pump have started it connecting wire from starter motor to battery so i think maybe when pulling the carpet i have accidentally disconnected a wire i don't know so somewhere its missing its start solenoid wire to the key maybe any help would be great
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Post by IZU069 »

Maybe a bad IGN switch (bad ST contact) but probably a break in the path from the key to the solenoid.
That could mean a bad relay circuit.
Is yours an automatic? Did you disturb the "not Neutral nor Park" safety circuit from (I think...) the console?
Manuals might have a similar relay...


Running fuel pump AFAIRemember(!!) means the ECU (part that controls the pump) is working - ie, CPU has power. That's as long as no-one had rewired it...
But it's connection may have been disturbed. The ECU is behind the RHS kickpanel just under the dash.

Otherwise, I suggest checking the fuses and flinks (fuse links).
Rotate all same sized fuses (that makes & breaks and transfers an intermittent or blown fuse to another circuit) and make and break the flink wires at the battery terminal. (If they need replacing, I suggest an upgrade to later plastic flinks as I have done (in my Isuzu Wasp) using Hyundai or Toyota etc 3-flink +12V battery terminals with flink box. Ask me - izu069 - for details if interested.)

Disconnecting and reconnecting relevant connectors. IMO that means every connector that you can see and get to and separate without breaking lock tabs (which most connectors have) and being able to refit properly (no crossed or pushed-out pins!) - preferably with an inspection and a spray of contact cleaner else INOX else WD-40.
Even shiny contacts can have tarnish etc that can reduce or insulate conduction, and pitted or blackened contacts should be replaced as should annealed contacts (no spring or clamping pressure), but all are prone to bad contact.
The mere break and re-make of a disconnect-connect can be enough to overcome problems.
FYI - Probably 80-90% of people's electrical problems that I have seen are solved with a simple jiggle (which includes the break & make part - after rotating fuses etc).
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wedgenut
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Post by wedgenut »

Hold up there Elmo, if you have disconnected the main radio wiring loom that is why it won't start off the key. This loom at the very end as well as the handbrake light wires has a plug connecting to your gear selector if an automatic to prevent starting in anything but park or neutral. if a manual car the plug is still there but it has a dummy jumper loop connector in the end to complete the circuit. So re connect your radio loom and all will be well. If the loom is disconnected up at the head deck end then you have an open circuit which prevents starting.

Am I right? yes I am.
So many cars, so little cash
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Post by IZU069 »

Wedgy - Thanks for the simple solution!
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Post by wedgenut »

no problem, I would be surprised if this isn't the problem. It is one of the most common things I hear, "I changed my head deck and got rid of all those extra wires and now the car won't start" It is like that other old chestnut, "I tried to remove the handbrake cable bolt and it was really tight and just sheared off," , Left hand thread, don't you love Isuzu
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Post by IZU069 »

And therein the difference between the experienced (you) and a generalist like me. Alas I know - or knew! - all those trickies for Florians, Belletts & Wasps, but I never "got into" my Piazzas.
The harness issue I could have picked up from the Piazza wiring diagrams in P's piazzamanual.pdf, but LH threads... (though with experience one often checks that possibility - especially for wheel nuts, crown wheels, adjustable handbrake cables, etc.)

It's probably another good reason NOT to cut off radio etc wires. Instead make up adaptors, even if it's to replace original unplugged wiring - ie, to run te required few wires ti enable starting etc.
I recommend the same even for non-collector new vehicles. A bonus being quick transfer to other equivalent vehicles and restoration of the OEM wiring to its original state.

And this shows the benefit or power of having forums like this - plus at least one guru. (LOL - definition of a guru? The one that can terminate or prevent the replies from the lesser experts. I'm thinking of another forum where I roll my eyes at the (lack of) replies so often provided by the resident worshipped expert. A lot of waste and reinventing the wheel - with all associated costs and delays. And in other cases, avoiding adding to the misinformation out there.
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piazzanoob
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Post by piazzanoob »

haha thanks i thought maybe that was the case and also wondered what that loop in the wiring was for thanks alot! :finga:
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