Coolent leak....what to do?

speedracerles · Post by **speedracerles** » Wed Sep 08, 2010 12:02 am

So my big question would be do I need this on the car and if yes where can i get a new one something more durable....

speedracerles · Post by **speedracerles** » Wed Sep 08, 2010 12:04 am

the peace were the hoses goes on has broken off so now there isnt anything there really to hold on to to keep coolant from getting every where... So what should I do?

IZU069 · Post by **IZU069** » Wed Sep 08, 2010 9:44 pm

If that's for the turbo, you might consider taking it out altogether (ie, bypass it). It may just be the mechanism to stop cold water cooling the turbo - when coolant is warm it flows thru unrestricted.

speedracerles · Post by **speedracerles** » Sat Sep 11, 2010 2:58 am

Well Ive seen on some of the cars on here, they dont even have on of those at all...so thats why I asked. I need to find out what it is first...anyone

IZU069 · Post by **IZU069** » Sat Sep 11, 2010 10:54 am

Where does it go to?
It looks similar to what we have here to cool the turbo.

Post by **wedgenut** » Sat Sep 11, 2010 8:16 pm

First up, I don't know for sure but here is my take on it. It is obviously a water valve and it appears to be on the return water hose from your turbo cooling circuit. They don't normally have a valve on that line so why is it there? Two schools of thought from me 1. WEEEEEEELL, you are in good ole Uncle Samville where it is illegal to breathe if you own a car so i reckon some dipshit sandal wearing tree hugger has said to Mr Isuzu " Hey slanty eyes, put a valve in there to hold the water back until it gets warm you yellow bastard and it will make the turbo more efficient and provide less pollution for our round eyed children to die from" Reason for thinking this is that it has a vacuum diaphragm dashpot to actuate it, so somewhere there will be a vac. control valve electrically operated to open or close with a signal from your temp circuit which will allow or not allow vacuum to operate the valve.

To check, with the engine running and still cold see if the valve is open or closed. My guess is it will be either closed or open, clever Huh! As it warms up see what it it does if anything. You will need to plug the water hose on the broken side that goes to the radiator of course to stop the wet stuff coming back out of the radiator. Don't line up any of your body parts with the valve as it warms up either as you might gat a blast of old faithful up your nostril if it opens suddenly.

Second thought is that Mr Ford convinced the government to make isusu add more shit to make them more expensive so they could sell more cars against GM or Isuzu America or whoever was handling them at the time.

The short remedy of course is throw it away and put a joiner in the hose, don't forget to plug the end of the vacuum line as well. Carefully toss the valve over your shoulder because what is behind you is of no concern unless it is carrying a gun.

I am happy to be wrong if someone can come up with a more accurate and definitive answer...do you want fries with that?

IZU069 · Post by **IZU069** » Sat Sep 11, 2010 9:00 pm

Well there is just no accounting for the smartness of some people eh?
Or - as they say - I am in your debt.

Despite laziness I found the doc I did a few years back for a comrade's problem....

The pic:

I wrote (15Nov05):

The system should be fail-safe in-so-far as the Water Valve is “normally open” therefore there is no restriction to water circulation should the system fail or Water Valve seize (assuming it doesn’t seize in the closed position).

To work around a system failure, the most that should be required is:
- disconnect the solenoid electrical connector,
- seal the vacuum “source” to prevent engine stalling etc (if there is a leak),
- bypass the Water Valve with new water hose or some joiner (if the valve leaks or has seized shut).

A permanently closed or blocked water path is likely to result in engine damage (ie, turbo overheating).
A permanently open or unblocked water path may only mean increased engine (turbo) wear until the system reaches normal operating temperature.

Post by **wedgenut** » Sat Sep 11, 2010 9:07 pm

Yeah well I was almost there, almost any question can be answered by a mixture of fish eaters and drunks.

speedracerles · Post by **speedracerles** » Mon Sep 13, 2010 3:33 am

As always great info... now the car is acting silly again with the fuseable links issue... No power at all, i fixed it once and now its back to being stupid once more...

IZU069 · Post by **IZU069** » Mon Sep 13, 2010 11:31 am

Yeah - wire type flinks are bad (IMHO...) and better off replaced with newer plastic types.

The Piazza flinks are prone to bad contacts (just ask my mate - his mechanic blew his Piazza ECU despite being told what to check AND HOW TO CHECK IT... some mechanics are absolute fukwits).

From memory, the Piazza wiring may be flawed in that there are series flinks - ie, a master flink which the splits into 3 parallel flinks (that is BAD!) though I may be confusing with other Isuzus.

My recommendation is replacement with a battery terminal mounted flink box as found on Hyundais or Daihatsu & Toyotas etc. They typically have 3 flinks.
I prefer the Daihatsu because its middle flink can be isolated (the wire to the "common" battery +12V can be reconnected elsewhere - I used is as an alternator to headlight flink). And all its flinks are pluggable whereas some use bolts - though for flinks above 40A I would now consider bolts unless I kept contacts clean.

Not that I ever fitted the above to my garden gnome Piazzas, but it's been done to my 1965 Wasp (Bellett ute) and works fine.

That conversion is another on the list of Isuzu Upgrade Documents on my round-tuit list, though this IUD is one specially intended for the Piazza.

And g'damn it - another inappropriate short reply....
But until this is reproduced elsewhere, here are some pics (that may be removed from ImageShack within a month or two so dump or "save page as" now....).

Flink box in situ (Isuzus Wasp)

The side view in situ (Wasp):

The flink's pluggable terminals:

Underside showing reconnectable center flink (normally all connect to the battery terminal):

LOL! To think I used to hate those thin sheet metal battery terminal types - I had finally found the ultimate terminals (Projecta satin-forged like the BT820-P & BT820H-P) and end up ditching them for the flink boxes! (But I now think flat terminals are better!)

Updated 21Sept10 - Confirmed the "centre pluggable" flink box was Daihatsu - not Hyundai. (Got a '94 Rodeo -cum- '98 Feroza relay/fuse box for the Wasp... I was gonna use the late-80's Jackaroo.)

Rodeobob · Post by **Rodeobob** » Mon Sep 20, 2010 3:58 pm

That water valve thing opens when the motor is off to allow the water to flow naturally (hot water rises) through the turbo when the engine is off.

Just put a bit of hose on and bypass it.

The only one ive got here is a busted one. Thats out of 5 cars.

Bob.

speedracerles · Post by **speedracerles** » Wed Sep 22, 2010 12:10 pm

you guys rock... Im going to pick up the 88 impulse this week so you all will be having alot of input in how the car is built... what do you say to that? I think it sounds like fun, I mean if you dont mind that is...lol
Let me know what you all think...

Cheers...

IZU069 · Post by **IZU069** » Wed Sep 22, 2010 1:03 pm

That means you will have to answer questions we might put to you....

Post by **wedgenut** » Wed Sep 22, 2010 5:28 pm

That means you will have to answer questions we might put to you....

Yes but are a weird bastard and will probably ask him what he is wearing

IZU069 · Post by **IZU069** » Wed Sep 22, 2010 8:56 pm

Nah - it was his old "unspecified answers".

I think my last unanswered question was what he didn't like with his current engine/Piazza performance.
If it was torque, it might have been the old $200 solution to doubling acceleration (until about 80mph).
If top end, it might have been the 400HP solution....
(That was when I thought Piazzas had the G200W and REAL injection systems! Not SOHC & Bosch crap.)