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impulsive
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Joined: 15 Dec 2010
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PostPosted: Mon Dec 19, 2011 8:12 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I actually ended up finding a BSP to SAE fitting, and that is what I have in place now. Engine is coming along nicely. I will probably have it back in the car next weekend.

I also did away with the A/C completely, found a belt that fits, and all is good. Full updates can be seen here:

http://www.isuzone.org/forums/showthread.php?p=273808#post273808

Bart
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eyecon
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Joined: 12 Dec 2010
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Location: Australia's Capital

PostPosted: Mon Dec 19, 2011 12:24 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Almost in time for Xmas too. I've been following the progress too. Great effort there.
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IZU069
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Joined: 14 Sep 2005
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Location: Melbourne (Orstralia)

PostPosted: Mon Dec 19, 2011 11:06 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Not that I read the linked thread in detail, but definitely have a radiator shop remove the header(s) and flush the radiator. They will advise if it needs replacement. A rad-flush down here is about $70-$100, and no - it is not the same as flushing it yourself.

The above is one of the "insurance" things I do after a rebuild etc.
I also replace ALL radiator rubbers (including heater hoses). If any are in good condition, they become my spares.
Also the thermostat (making sure it has a small air-bleed hole; some don't so I drill a ~2mm hole).

With the above, any problem is probably reduced to a bad water pump, else severe crap in the block or head (which I have usually flushed out as part of whatever work).

Usually I replace welsh plugs as well, unless they are easy to get to and inspect. (IE - do the plug at the rear of the engine under the flywheel whenever that is apart.)


I killed one engine due to a pinhole in an otherwise ok lower radiator hose. (My first proper rebuild of a balanced and rebored engine.)
I also bought my red Piazza thanks to a similar pinhole. The poor dude had just fitted an imported engine (I wonder if it was the 180HP version?) and had done lots of work including a 3" exhaust system and analog dash, and then BANG! Advertised for $3,000, I got it for $1,500.


FYI - my second full engine rebuild was my Wasp (a G161-OHV engine). Although I didn't get the radiator flushed (that was a later lesson), I did fit a new water pump and all new hoses (and ignition parts). I didn't have to worry about checking water or oil levels for years after that.

If flushing the cooling system yourself, hair shampoo is probably best. (Thanks RodeoBob.) I used to use kerosene, but that's bloody messy. (What type of shampoo? For OILY hair of course! That's if it matters....)

And please use appropriate coolant. Even though the engine runs hotter, it won't boil as easily, and water alone is a killer - alloy heads and pumps will corrode badly.
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impulsive
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PostPosted: Tue Dec 20, 2011 2:49 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Don't worry, IZU069. I have a brand new radiator going into this car. The motor has been professionally cleaned, checked, and resealed.

Basically, on this build, if I can replace it, I have.

Smile Bart
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PostPosted: Tue Dec 20, 2011 3:03 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Do any of you guys know how to prime these engines? I don't see a way to spin the oil pump and get oil flowing through before my first start.

Any suggestions?

Thanks - Bart
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wedgenut
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Joined: 04 Jul 2005
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PostPosted: Tue Dec 20, 2011 3:56 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Simple, remove the positive or ignition side coil lead and the spark plugs and crank it on the starter until the oil pressure light goes out. If you are fussy remove the fuel pump relay in the black box in the engine bay so you are not pumping in any fuel either. With the plugs out you are not straining the starter or battery and with the coil not energised no nasty bitey sparks.

I have a spare rebuilt engine on a stand in my shed and I connect a battery to it every couple of weeks and give it a spin over to keep the surfaces lubricated. The oil pressure light going out indicates there is sufficient pressure to all the bearing surfaces. It only takes about 20 - 30 seconds from rebult dry and if assembled with oil in the first place cranking speed will not cause any problems.
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PostPosted: Wed Dec 21, 2011 12:59 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thank you, I will do just that! I know the machine shop lubed everything well, but just as an extra precaution...

Thanks agian,

Bart
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