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Bumper removal...

 
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GeminiCoupe
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Joined: 11 Jul 2005
Posts: 692
Location: Victoria - The Boosted State

PostPosted: Mon Sep 12, 2005 7:18 pm    Post subject: Bumper removal... Reply with quote

Havent looked at the bumpers closely [and therefore havent attempted them, im sure i could work it out if i searched long enough] but theyll need to come off. Where and how many bolts are there? Bit of a no0bie bullshit question but i have little time to work on the car let alone sit there sussing things out.

Cheers,

Nick-
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daily - 02 S15 Nissan 200SX GTspecS Turbo
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Tommy
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Joined: 07 Jul 2005
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Location: Norway

PostPosted: Mon Sep 12, 2005 7:31 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Four each front and rear. Front is from inside off enginebay side off tunnels. Rear inside cargo aerea, lift carpet, under the metal covers.

Tommy
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wedgenut
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Joined: 04 Jul 2005
Posts: 1636
Location: Hibiscus Coast NZ

PostPosted: Mon Sep 12, 2005 8:39 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yeah and don't forget the little #$%%^&* screws holding to the underpan, and inside the wheel arches behind the guard liners, front and rear there are slide locaters that the bumper actually just slides out of normally but i have come across one where the original slide spacers were gone and they were bolted tight as. On the rear the number plate holder also needs to be unbolted in the centre to swing up out of the way and disconnect the plate lamp wiring before you walk away with the bumper, and jeez don't forget to rewire them before putting fully back into place, its a bitch having to take it back off.
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Rodeobob
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Joined: 11 Jul 2005
Posts: 1383
Location: Sunshine Nth Melbourne

PostPosted: Tue Sep 13, 2005 2:23 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I pulled the front bumper off mine from underneath with a ratchet and socket on the RHS, on the left the intercooler is in the way so i had to use a spanner. Ive been told its easier to take the intercooler out. Up to you, its a tight spot and if id soaked the bolts in CRC it would have been a lot easier, but i got it off with the spanner, i think it was a 6th of a turn at a time. Took a while.

I wouldnt have wanted the intercooler off mine any way. The car wont run with it off so you have to push it to move it. Im still yet to put the other bumper on it.


Cheers. Bob.
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Bugle
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Joined: 17 Jul 2005
Posts: 1007
Location: Sydney

PostPosted: Tue Sep 13, 2005 12:54 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Intercooler is a 5 min job to remove. Just 2 bolts and undo the hose clamps remove the plastic pipe then remove the intercooler being careful not to hit the fins on anything.. Then you can put it back in after youve removed the bumper if you need to move the car.

You have to undo all the bolts on the tow attachments and remove them too because they're sticking out through the bumper.
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archangel62
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Joined: 14 Aug 2005
Posts: 232
Location: Adelaide, South Australia

PostPosted: Fri Mar 09, 2012 1:59 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Just digging up an ancient thread here, since it's relevant and may as well be in one place.

Does anyone know how to remove the factory optioned front lip, and rear spoiler? I've been looking all over the front lip on the spares car, and can't for the life of me figure out how to get it off, without resorting to brute force (which probably isn't a good idea).

As for the rear wing, we used the "tug on it" philosophy because it was coming off anyway, but one or two mounting points are holding on. How's it MEANT to come off? lol
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Indigo - '76 TX Gemini sedan, G180W+T project,
Abigail - '81 TE sedan, white, G180W ITB project,
New Hotness - TG Gemini drift car, orange, 4ZE1+T
Tardis - 1986 Piazza 4ZC1-T, black, forged, 136rwkw @13psi
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wedgenut
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Joined: 04 Jul 2005
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Location: Hibiscus Coast NZ

PostPosted: Fri Mar 09, 2012 3:07 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

the front lip is attached by about six nuts on the inside of the bumper. Most are easy enough to get from underneath but two of them are a pain to get at with the bar on the car, still possible. If you remove the inner guard floppy dirt shields and the front indicator lamps you will find it a bit easier for access. They are 8mm AF nuts with rubber washers. The rear urethane spoiler is also held on by 8mm nuts on embedded studs. To access those you need to remove the lower inner trim panels. The two pieces that run up the side of the window are just held by body tape so will just peel off. If you don't want the spoiler again you could slip a hacksaw blade carefully between the spoiler and lid and cut the screws. I usually cut the screws off anyway as they are rust attracting, fill the holoes in the lid and then re mount the spoiler with URETHANE adhesive NOT RTV otherwise known as silly coon, remembering of course to leave the drain tracks unsealed.
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Bugle
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Joined: 17 Jul 2005
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Location: Sydney

PostPosted: Fri Mar 09, 2012 5:25 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yeah those rear spoilers are a shocker. Thought i'd found every nut, tried pulling it off and the remaining mounts just ripped out of the spoiler because they were rusted to almost nothing.
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archangel62
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Joined: 14 Aug 2005
Posts: 232
Location: Adelaide, South Australia

PostPosted: Sat Mar 10, 2012 3:04 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Awesome replies, thanks chaps! I'll have another crack at this soon, as soon as my Piazza's on the road, I'll need that body kit in order to look at it with any sense of pride...

Tomorrow's the big turn-key. Theoretically. The immobiliser doesn't agree, but *derisive snort* he's not the boss of me. One can always bypass crummy old electronic inhibitors Big Smile
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Indigo - '76 TX Gemini sedan, G180W+T project,
Abigail - '81 TE sedan, white, G180W ITB project,
New Hotness - TG Gemini drift car, orange, 4ZE1+T
Tardis - 1986 Piazza 4ZC1-T, black, forged, 136rwkw @13psi
Coupe - TX coupe grip car, "do it later", G180W+twin carbs
Trevor aka Jimmy's Gem - Grandpa-spec TD
BA Falcon - Tow car
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eyecon
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Joined: 12 Dec 2010
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Location: Australia's Capital

PostPosted: Sat Mar 10, 2012 6:24 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Good luck for tomorrow mate.
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