Coolent leak....what to do?

IZU069 · Post by **IZU069** » Mon Sep 13, 2010 11:31 am

Yeah - wire type flinks are bad (IMHO...) and better off replaced with newer plastic types.

The Piazza flinks are prone to bad contacts (just ask my mate - his mechanic blew his Piazza ECU despite being told what to check AND HOW TO CHECK IT... some mechanics are absolute fukwits).

From memory, the Piazza wiring may be flawed in that there are series flinks - ie, a master flink which the splits into 3 parallel flinks (that is BAD!) though I may be confusing with other Isuzus.

My recommendation is replacement with a battery terminal mounted flink box as found on Hyundais or Daihatsu & Toyotas etc. They typically have 3 flinks.
I prefer the Daihatsu because its middle flink can be isolated (the wire to the "common" battery +12V can be reconnected elsewhere - I used is as an alternator to headlight flink). And all its flinks are pluggable whereas some use bolts - though for flinks above 40A I would now consider bolts unless I kept contacts clean.

Not that I ever fitted the above to my garden gnome Piazzas, but it's been done to my 1965 Wasp (Bellett ute) and works fine.

That conversion is another on the list of Isuzu Upgrade Documents on my round-tuit list, though this IUD is one specially intended for the Piazza.

And g'damn it - another inappropriate short reply....
But until this is reproduced elsewhere, here are some pics (that may be removed from ImageShack within a month or two so dump or "save page as" now....).

Flink box in situ (Isuzus Wasp)

The side view in situ (Wasp):

The flink's pluggable terminals:

Underside showing reconnectable center flink (normally all connect to the battery terminal):

LOL! To think I used to hate those thin sheet metal battery terminal types - I had finally found the ultimate terminals (Projecta satin-forged like the BT820-P & BT820H-P) and end up ditching them for the flink boxes! (But I now think flat terminals are better!)

Updated 21Sept10 - Confirmed the "centre pluggable" flink box was Daihatsu - not Hyundai. (Got a '94 Rodeo -cum- '98 Feroza relay/fuse box for the Wasp... I was gonna use the late-80's Jackaroo.)

Rodeobob · Post by **Rodeobob** » Mon Sep 20, 2010 3:58 pm

That water valve thing opens when the motor is off to allow the water to flow naturally (hot water rises) through the turbo when the engine is off.

Just put a bit of hose on and bypass it.

The only one ive got here is a busted one. Thats out of 5 cars.

Bob.

speedracerles · Post by **speedracerles** » Wed Sep 22, 2010 12:10 pm

you guys rock... Im going to pick up the 88 impulse this week so you all will be having alot of input in how the car is built... what do you say to that? I think it sounds like fun, I mean if you dont mind that is...lol
Let me know what you all think...

Cheers...

IZU069 · Post by **IZU069** » Wed Sep 22, 2010 1:03 pm

That means you will have to answer questions we might put to you....

Post by **wedgenut** » Wed Sep 22, 2010 5:28 pm

That means you will have to answer questions we might put to you....

Yes but are a weird bastard and will probably ask him what he is wearing

IZU069 · Post by **IZU069** » Wed Sep 22, 2010 8:56 pm

Nah - it was his old "unspecified answers".

I think my last unanswered question was what he didn't like with his current engine/Piazza performance.
If it was torque, it might have been the old $200 solution to doubling acceleration (until about 80mph).
If top end, it might have been the 400HP solution....
(That was when I thought Piazzas had the G200W and REAL injection systems! Not SOHC & Bosch crap.)

speedracerles · Post by **speedracerles** » Mon Oct 11, 2010 5:08 am

The car is still not getting any power at all, I changed out the batterie and still no power.
When I took the old one to get it checked they told me that it only had 10 volts of power so I got a new one.
Took it home and put it in and still nothing... The funny thing is when I put the conector cable on the batterie I could here the power going to the car but nothing was coming on. No lights nothing...

Altornator, maybe...? I know we sad Flinks but I have no way of getting the different set up for that at the moment. Could I change out the old FLink, with a new one from the autoparts store? just woundering...lol

IZU069 · Post by **IZU069** » Mon Oct 11, 2010 10:54 am

And this has what to do with leaking coolant? Start a new thread!

It has nothing to do with alternator - that only supplies power one the engine is running. In other cases it's the battery.

And if your flinks are like ours, the above are wrong (in the pic) - they are not "loop-back" flinks but go from the black 3-way connector to the battery (3 flinks) and similarly for the white 2-way. (Who wired it that way and why??!)

As I see it, you only have power to your ignition switch but only for the ignition coil, cigar lighters, meters, maybe turn flashers & reverse lights.
Though the main relay for the ECU etc should "click", you will not have power for ECU, ignition, wipers, windows, lights, hazards, room & stop lamps, rear defogger....

The black 3-way to battery should be ok with 3 x 15A fuses.
The white 2-way with a 25A fuse.

IMO it's not worth using the original style flinks - they are out of fashion for a reason. Change to plastics instead...

speedracerles · Post by **speedracerles** » Mon Oct 11, 2010 1:26 pm

As far as were the thread has gone ok, Im just trying to get info I could have done that but didnt... Thanks for the info. So where do I get the new type from then?

by the way last post under the thread... will start a new one

IZU069 · Post by **IZU069** » Mon Oct 11, 2010 1:56 pm

Where from?
Anywhere - it depends what you want to do.

Read the last page.

If it's too complicated, replace them with the old flinks...