clutch issue

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86piazza
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clutch issue

Post by 86piazza »

hi guys i have a clutch problem. the issue is when i push the clutch in there simply is no clutch the pedal stays on the floor. any insight to this issue would be greatly appreciated
btw the car is an 86 piazza turbo
thanks karl
IZU069
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Post by IZU069 »

It's a hydraulic clutch.

Your master cylinder may just be stuck to the bottom of its travel where gunk can build up - though this is more common on brake systems (since brake pedals rarely bottom out - except when being bled - or in emergencies which is NOT when you want a stuck pedal. Hence bleed often (every 6 months or 2 years max) and push the pedal all the way to the floor).

And irrespective of whether there is still fluid in the system or not, it has probably sprung a leak (which means new seals for both master (pedal) and slave (clutch) cylinders. (If one is still okay, it is about to go - or will soon after the other is replaced.)

The slave is usually easiest to get to - to remove, and replace.
The master may be difficult....


For both, it is nice to hone the bores before fitting new seals. Though not by the book, I merely wet&dry with fine wet emery paper in a radial direction (around the bore - NOT up & down like a piston or randy couple). You want a smooth(ish) finish with no lips or gunk to get caught in.
Wash the bores with warm soapy water to remove any grit (just as you do on engine bores after a re-bore or hone) and dry immediately.
Use rubber grease if possible for the reassembly, otherwise brake fluid.

Water is the best to wash with anyhow - brake fluid mixes with water. Never use mineral oils (petrol etc) unless you remove all traces (with warm soapy water etc).


You can probably pre-bleed the master before refitting. IE - fill the reservoir and with a finger or thumb over the outlet (which should be held so it is the highest point), push and later pump the piston till all air is expelled. Then keep the piston bottomed in the bore (so it doesn't let fluid from the reservoir into the bore) and refit. Attach hoses and slave and then release piston and repeat the push then pump till air is out (bleeder nipple on the slave).

The hoses are probably attached with 10mm or 12mm tube nuts. Often special spanners are needed - ie, hex-sided ring spanners with an open slot to enable the hose-tube to get through. But sometimes open-enders work. Never use multi-grips (they crush the nuts) - the one-handers aka "speed wrenches" are far better.


Clutch hydraulics are not too difficult, and are not critical like brake hydraulics. Clutches are a good stepping stone for brake hydraulics - not that I would ever suggest non-qualified people mess with brake systems!


The PiazzaManual.pdf has master and slave figs on pp 07A-31 & 32.
Removal & replacement & overhaul info on pp 07A-45 - 07A-49.
(Then comes troubleshooting/diagnostic flow charts which may cover your situation.)
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wedgenut
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Post by wedgenut »

Double check the master cylinder pusher is actually still connect. A very common Piazza fault is that the weld lets go on the end of the cross bar. You will need a torch and a double jointed neck as the bit you need to look at is up behind the ECU.
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86piazza
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Post by 86piazza »

would it be easier to just yank the pedal assembly out and check the cross bar that way?
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wedgenut
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Post by wedgenut »

Oh don't make me laugh, it hurts. Yanking out the pedal assembly on a Piazza is real easy, after you have removed the cente console, the dashboard assembly and the steering column, disconnected the bolts holding the brake booster through the firewall which also hold the pedal box in and then when you still can't get the damn thing to move let me know and I will tell you where the two secret bolts are.

TRUST ME, look first, you don't want to do all the above unless you really have to.
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86piazza
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Post by 86piazza »

okay i managed to snap my neck im a few places amd crane my head up near the ecu only to find that the steel tab that pushes on the master cyl is still intact however the pin attached to it (the one that goes into the master cylinder) is rusty and corroded could this be my problem?
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wedgenut
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Post by wedgenut »

Yep it could very well be seized, take the master cylinder off. No biggie, pull the "R" clip out of the clevis pin, slip the clevis pin out, remove the fluid pipe and unbolt and it will come through the fire wall with the pin still in it. There is a circlip holding the pin into the cylinder, remove that and if the piston is stuck down the end try blowing it back by applying compressed air to the fluid outlet, hold a rag over the end so you don't get bits flying everwhere and clutch fluid in yer eye balls.
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