My Piazza project thread

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GeminiCoupe
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Post by GeminiCoupe »

Hey thats looking good man, you and alex made my effort look like arse.

Nick-
project - 76 Gemini Coupe G200z EFI Turbo
daily - 02 S15 Nissan 200SX GTspecS Turbo
wet-weather fun toy - TX 75 Gemini Sedan G200z
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Bugle
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Post by Bugle »

Nah it doesn't look that good you can see some marks in it places where i've used teh dremel to sand rust off. But it's not like you can actually see any of it once all the electronics and the rest are bolted in.

I just painted the shock tower then, got some good runs on it just like the factory paint job!
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GeminiCoupe
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Post by GeminiCoupe »

As long as it looks factory its all good!

Im having huge dramas with mine, dont know wether its the gun or me.

Nick-
project - 76 Gemini Coupe G200z EFI Turbo
daily - 02 S15 Nissan 200SX GTspecS Turbo
wet-weather fun toy - TX 75 Gemini Sedan G200z
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wedgenut
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Post by wedgenut »

Im having huge dramas with mine, dont know wether its the gun or me
What kind of dramas are you getting Nick? I've fucked up so many paint jobs in the past and had to fix them I can probably help or at least sympathise.

The biggest and most tedious was the wifes jag, back to bare metal, inside and out repaint, crappy colour as well to keep it original, compared to that a Piazza is a five minute job, not really but you get my drift.

I could post a picture but would be banned for fouling the site.
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Bugle
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Post by Bugle »

Yeah discuss
Just so I know what not to do when painting mine!
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Post by Bugle »

Found these front lowered springs (left) one on the right was in the car and appears to be a stock one matching the JDM spec "Turbo normality" ones http://www.starlyon.com/bugle/piazza/fr ... ension.htm
I remember the guy gave the lowered ones to me with the car and said he had to change it because it was too low. With the standard springs the car was lower than any standard Piazza i've seen so I assume it had dropped a bit due to one side lower arm being bent up, and the other having elongated mounting holes for the lower arm. I've calculated that the lowered springs should compress an inch more than the stock ones. Should be a fair bit stiffer. 2 less coils and 15mm vs 14mm thickness. Should be easier to fit too..

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Rodeobob
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Post by Rodeobob »

Yeah but the one on the left is just "cut" and thats not propper. From what you said it will be too low.

Youd be better off removing a little from a standard spring. Half way between if you like.


Bob.
Too many Piazzas to little money.

Currently unemployed. Watch this space.
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Bugle
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Post by Bugle »

Nah it's not cut it's a custom spring made like that. It's properly flattened at one end and at the other end the final coil is closer to the next coil than all the other coils are to each other.

I mean 1 inch shorter as in with the weight of the car on them both, taking the final lengths of the springs the custom one will be 1 inch lower.

It's about 40% stiffer than the standard spring too wonder how that'd feel..
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Post by wedgenut »

It's about 40% stiffer than the standard spring too wonder how that'd feel..
I can tell you what it feels like, I used to be much taller than I am now from driving mine with stiffer springs. Spine is compressed, teeth are all loose and my watch has stopped working. The eyes don't focus and I have an unnatural desire to wear an American baseball hat backwards. My pants want to drop down to my knees exposing my arse crack, I like to say YO! a lot and I I am beginning to listen to rap music by some dipshit named peehole or bumdiddy or something similar.

I really gotta put some proper springs back in.
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Bugle
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Post by Bugle »

hahah I might give them a go anyway
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wedgenut
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Post by wedgenut »

hahah I might give them a go anyway
I forgot to mention the plus side, it goes round corners like it is on rails, thank goodness for the piazza wind-in side supporting seats. In the wet you creep along like a granny as with all piazzas but in the dry on a twisty road with the Potenzas you bloody near need a G suit. I haven't found the limit yet and i'm not sure i want to as i get the impression it won't slide but do what a slot car does and roll several hundred times and I'm too old for that shit. My missus was driving one day in the wet and gave it the heavy foot turning right out of a "T" intersection. After the fourth rotation with the front going nowhere we went home so i could run the undies through a heavy duty hot wash. I then sat her down and explained the different pedal pressure required between a turbo manual and NA auto. You can still see the fingernail marks on the dashboard!

However if you really want to go ahead with it can I interest you in one broken watch, a backwards hat and the loan of a backbrace. To preserve the teeth get something tough to bite on, something you can't possibly chew through like a four day old four'n twenty pie. :finga:
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GeminiCoupe
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Post by GeminiCoupe »

Sorry to hijack your thread thommo, just wanted to reply to Alex's post. My problem is that this is my first spray job, although i have people giving me advice on what to do/not to do, i have no one that can actually see what ive done and say bloke, this needs adjusting, or your doing this wrong. Everything thus-far is self taught.

Ive got a few problems [besides my own prep work in some sections]. I dont know if its a culmination of my spraying technique or equiptment. First problem is surface finish. Instead of getting a peely sort of finish as you would expect, im getting a fine, grainy finish. Once rubbed back it leaves you with little "dots" that can be seen in sunlight at the right angle. Now, first thought was im applying the paint too dry, although im packing it on and it still keeps happening. Ive tried adjusting the gun [and yes it is properly cleaned], and it has a weird spray pattern. One large spray, and one tiny spray. My thoughts are even though im applying it wet, the small spray is misting over and fucking my finish. Yes/No/Not possible?

Next is getting off the trigger. If you leave it any longer then 2seconds and theres a huge pressure build up, resulting in a massive squirt of paint when you get back on the trigger. Why? This gun also wont pick up any paint unless the compressor pressure is 90psi +. Final prob is the fucking LHS door, in particular two little sections that keep blistering. Ive tried rubbing it back more, ive tried going dryer/wetter, its all properly cleaned, yet these two sections just flake off as soon as paint hits them.

wedgenut wrote:I haven't found the limit yet and i'm not sure i want to as i get the impression it won't slide but do what a slot car does and roll several hundred times and I'm too old for that shit. My missus was driving one day in the wet and gave it the heavy foot turning right out of a "T" intersection. After the fourth rotation with the front going nowhere we went home so i could run the undies through a heavy duty hot wash.
A good car is not defined by how high its limits are - more by how far you can step over them :supz: As for the accidental doughnut thing, my auntie has been there and done that about 5 times. She drives a freak of a VS V6 [keeps up with 5L's], has the worlds worst throttle control and viewed from the front, shes that short youd think the car was driving itself. Many a time shes tried to take off in the wet shes faced the wrong way.

Nick-
project - 76 Gemini Coupe G200z EFI Turbo
daily - 02 S15 Nissan 200SX GTspecS Turbo
wet-weather fun toy - TX 75 Gemini Sedan G200z
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Post by Bugle »

lol so I can stick on those handling by Lotus badges on and not seem like a total goose with standard aus spec handling, still be a ricer though.


That's weird Nick I would have thought even if the smaller spray is leaving a mist over the top when you rub it back it should just take that off..

Try taking the door back to bare metal shouldn't blister then!
For some reason I did have problems in some places with the etch primer I was using blistering the original primer..
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Post by wedgenut »

Ive got a few problems [besides my own prep work in some sections]. I dont know if its a culmination of my spraying technique or equiptment. First problem is surface finish. Instead of getting a peely sort of finish as you would expect, im getting a fine, grainy finish. Once rubbed back it leaves you with little "dots" that can be seen in sunlight at the right angle. Now, first thought was im applying the paint too dry, although im packing it on and it still keeps happening. Ive tried adjusting the gun [and yes it is properly cleaned], and it has a weird spray pattern. One large spray, and one tiny spray. My thoughts are even though im applying it wet, the small spray is misting over and fucking my finish. Yes/No/Not possible?

Next is getting off the trigger. If you leave it any longer then 2seconds and theres a huge pressure build up, resulting in a massive squirt of paint when you get back on the trigger. Why? This gun also wont pick up any paint unless the compressor pressure is 90psi +. Final prob is the fucking LHS door, in particular two little sections that keep blistering. Ive tried rubbing it back more, ive tried going dryer/wetter, its all properly cleaned, yet these two sections just flake off as soon as paint hits them.
Nick
You have a couple of problems here, one is equipment and the other is prep. Checking the basics, You need a compressor capable of about 10cfm minimum to get good air flow and suction at normal operating pressure which in most cases is 35 - 45 psi. Some recommend higher but it depends on the gun and the paint. You can even get away with less depending on the type of paint. You didn't say what type of paint you were using but with acrylic lacquer you need to get the right thinners and the right mix ratio. The most common cause of lack of pick up is the paint is too thick. Lacquer you would normally mix 1 part paint to 1.5 thinner. If I were to assume that you have the air flow and also the right thinner and the right mix then you have a gun problem or it is badly adjusted or partially blocked. First check that it is a suction gun and not a pressure gun. Assuming it is a suction gun check that the air vent is clear and that the suction pipe is clear and not jammed against the bottom of the pot where you dented the base last week. NO WAIT that was me.. The pattern problem should be easy to fix, check the needle isn't bent at the tip and the hole in the air cap isn't all out of shape. I guess you are using a 1.6 - 2.0 size cap or thereabouts. Check the air feed holes on the horns of the air cap and the two dispersion jet holes either side of the central nozzle. If either of those is blocked you will get the symptom you have described. I also assume you have an adjustable paint screw and air screw. With the air screw in you would get a small circular patttern of pure paint in large volumes and as you screw it out to admit more air to the cap the pattern will become less rich and wider as the air dispersion fans it out.

I'm confused about the pressure build up thing, there is no pressure build up with a suction gun if that is what you have. The paint is transported by venturi action of high velocity air passing the pick up tube sucking paint up into the delivery passage. A pressure gun or pressure pot system has (or should have) a regulator or relief valve which you set to the recommended pressure for the paint and application , usually no more than 1 bar (14.7psi) Again there can be no pressure build up beyond this but you can't have one of those if you say you are getting no pick up until 90 psi.

The finish problem will have something to do with the gun problems but the little dots you mention could be dust which will rub out when finished or if they are like pin holes you have silicone dude. Prepsol may get rid of it but if in doubt get a good blocking agent. It isn't cheap but it is worth the money. You can use the same stuff on your door as well as it sounds like you have cellulose on there or some bloody liquid diamond wax that you can't kill with a flame thrower. Back to metal will fix it but the block should as well. Apply it evenly once you get your gun sorted and DON"T rub it down afterwards. It is ready to take your primer and finish coats usually within 30 minutes. Don''t pile the paint on. Better to take the time to apply two or three lighter coats then finish with a double wet coat and always spray away from you to prevent overspray dulling your finish. There is a point at which you can't avoid overmisting already painted surfaces but that usually buffs out fine.

This is getting too long winded now. If you have any questions or want to discuss more PM me instead to save boring the arse of everyone else. Don't beat yourself up. I am convinced it is a lot about equipment and what you are trying to cover than anything else.
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Bugle
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Post by Bugle »

I decided to replace the sump gasket while I can actually get the sump off without removing the engine. It did have a few cracks in it looked like it was leaking from a few places and there was a leak at the rear of the engine but I suspect that's the crank seal.

Just got the sump off so far..
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