The second coming.
I thought you said it wasa Nero garnish, it only says Piazza, although it's the right one for our cars being an XE Turbo one
Dunno how you could misplace the alternator wire, it's a huge thick double wired thing with a huge black plug, maybe you unplugged it at the plug before?
Vacuum diagrams are also in the service manual just another reminder to get a copy
That underbonnet diagram looks correct compared to Australian version except for on a manual it's missing one of the fast idle valves.
Dunno how you could misplace the alternator wire, it's a huge thick double wired thing with a huge black plug, maybe you unplugged it at the plug before?
Vacuum diagrams are also in the service manual just another reminder to get a copy
That underbonnet diagram looks correct compared to Australian version except for on a manual it's missing one of the fast idle valves.
- GeminiCoupe
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Yeh i thought it was a NERO garnish but i was wrong wasnt i
Nick-
Yeah thats what im thinking, and its probably still attached to my other engine Will need to check that.Dunno how you could misplace the alternator wire, it's a huge thick double wired thing with a huge black plug, maybe you unplugged it at the plug before?
Nick-
project - 76 Gemini Coupe G200z EFI Turbo
daily - 02 S15 Nissan 200SX GTspecS Turbo
wet-weather fun toy - TX 75 Gemini Sedan G200z
daily - 02 S15 Nissan 200SX GTspecS Turbo
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Yeh, those vacuum hoses are a bitch! Just make sure none of em are split. Apparently there are some that can be removed, a long time ago there was a thread about this...
If Gemini's were ever meant to go fast, they would have come out of the factory with 4zc1t engines!!
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- GeminiCoupe
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As of tonight, SHES ALIVE. Me and a mate got her started suprisingly easily - it literally switched on after about 2-3seconds of cranking. However, shes running rough - very rough. Couple of problems are damn obvious but ill list them in order of how things happened.
Checked all the wiring, everything was sweet. Dropped a battery in her to notice that i had no top-half of the dash , im assuming ive left something un-connected but ill work that out on the weekend. On the on position we had power, could hear relays going and the fuel pump going etc but it wouldnt turn over AT ALL. I then realised that in all the excitement ive forgotten the park/neutral safety switch. Problem one.
Found the wires with power - theres two of them, one for park and one for neutral [der]. But then what? Tried different combinations of connecting them to other wires in the plug to no avail, no start. Left the key on the On position when i bumped two wires and....wtf it started? I managed to get it to turn over by briding two wires in the park-neutral switch - WTFS GOING ON THERE? I think Rick mentioned he had the same prob when he converted his to manual, and just put a switch there and starts it by push button. I dont really want that, any ideas? If it cant be avoided or its too much messing around ill just hook up a Honda Type-R style start button for that wank factor.
Anyway, once i figured out it started that way, we got it running and it settled into a slightly rought and lumpy idle but nothing to crazy. Sounded abit too rattly so i killed it and checked the oil - couldve sworn i put 2L in there but it showed empty. No leaks on floor either so thats out. Topped it up with oil, cranked it over again and was quiter at idle but noisy when revved. Doesnt appear to be any lifter noise or bottom end bearings as these were fine when it was in the red Piazza. My guesses are -
- Cooler pipes not tightened properly, rattle against each other when revved
- Major exhaust leak, evident when revved
- Cooler pipe rattling on rocker cover [havent bolted it down yet, couldnt find the bolt]
- One bolt broken on metal timing plate [the one behind the cam wheel], possibly rattling against head?
Any other ideas?
Smoked like crazy from both the exhaust manifold [sealant burning] and exhaust pipe[too dark to pay attention to it but it appears to be just condensation]. Suprisingly quiet considering theres no rear muffler! The main drama is the ignition timing which is easy [turn engine to 0tdc, remove dizzy, make sure its on 0 setting and then time with timing gun] as i have a feeling ive put the dizzy in wrong. Plugs are good, once timings done it leaves the vac lines and cooler pipes as the culprits for poor idle. I found one loose clamp, need to double check and ensure everythings sealing.
As for the vac lines, the diagram Alex gave me helped but at the same time it didnt. The drivers side is an ABSOLUTE MESS. Can anyone get me pics of theirs so i can work off that?
Nick-
Checked all the wiring, everything was sweet. Dropped a battery in her to notice that i had no top-half of the dash , im assuming ive left something un-connected but ill work that out on the weekend. On the on position we had power, could hear relays going and the fuel pump going etc but it wouldnt turn over AT ALL. I then realised that in all the excitement ive forgotten the park/neutral safety switch. Problem one.
Found the wires with power - theres two of them, one for park and one for neutral [der]. But then what? Tried different combinations of connecting them to other wires in the plug to no avail, no start. Left the key on the On position when i bumped two wires and....wtf it started? I managed to get it to turn over by briding two wires in the park-neutral switch - WTFS GOING ON THERE? I think Rick mentioned he had the same prob when he converted his to manual, and just put a switch there and starts it by push button. I dont really want that, any ideas? If it cant be avoided or its too much messing around ill just hook up a Honda Type-R style start button for that wank factor.
Anyway, once i figured out it started that way, we got it running and it settled into a slightly rought and lumpy idle but nothing to crazy. Sounded abit too rattly so i killed it and checked the oil - couldve sworn i put 2L in there but it showed empty. No leaks on floor either so thats out. Topped it up with oil, cranked it over again and was quiter at idle but noisy when revved. Doesnt appear to be any lifter noise or bottom end bearings as these were fine when it was in the red Piazza. My guesses are -
- Cooler pipes not tightened properly, rattle against each other when revved
- Major exhaust leak, evident when revved
- Cooler pipe rattling on rocker cover [havent bolted it down yet, couldnt find the bolt]
- One bolt broken on metal timing plate [the one behind the cam wheel], possibly rattling against head?
Any other ideas?
Smoked like crazy from both the exhaust manifold [sealant burning] and exhaust pipe[too dark to pay attention to it but it appears to be just condensation]. Suprisingly quiet considering theres no rear muffler! The main drama is the ignition timing which is easy [turn engine to 0tdc, remove dizzy, make sure its on 0 setting and then time with timing gun] as i have a feeling ive put the dizzy in wrong. Plugs are good, once timings done it leaves the vac lines and cooler pipes as the culprits for poor idle. I found one loose clamp, need to double check and ensure everythings sealing.
As for the vac lines, the diagram Alex gave me helped but at the same time it didnt. The drivers side is an ABSOLUTE MESS. Can anyone get me pics of theirs so i can work off that?
Nick-
project - 76 Gemini Coupe G200z EFI Turbo
daily - 02 S15 Nissan 200SX GTspecS Turbo
wet-weather fun toy - TX 75 Gemini Sedan G200z
daily - 02 S15 Nissan 200SX GTspecS Turbo
wet-weather fun toy - TX 75 Gemini Sedan G200z
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GeminiCoupe wrote:Dropped a battery in her to notice that i had no top-half of the dash , im assuming ive left something un-connected but ill work that out on the weekend.
Dont be so sure of that. Sometimes they just go. happened to me too. Thought i forgot to connect something up but turns out the dash was just rooted(same as u the bottom half was ok... ie, none of the green stuff worked)
If Gemini's were ever meant to go fast, they would have come out of the factory with 4zc1t engines!!
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- GeminiCoupe
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Rattling could be bad timing.
Could be lots of things, my ute rattles........................ Its got more rattles than a millionares baby.
With that wire, just leave them permanantly joined together. Thats what the neutral saftey switch does, but only joins them in park on neutral. Or you could route it and put in a hidden switch, the opposite of a Kill switch.
Good to hear youve got it going.
Bob.
Could be lots of things, my ute rattles........................ Its got more rattles than a millionares baby.
With that wire, just leave them permanantly joined together. Thats what the neutral saftey switch does, but only joins them in park on neutral. Or you could route it and put in a hidden switch, the opposite of a Kill switch.
Good to hear youve got it going.
Bob.
Too many Piazzas to little money.
Currently unemployed. Watch this space.
Currently unemployed. Watch this space.
I took some pics of mine I think but it just looks like a complete mess all it's good for is which vacuum switches go where not how they're hooked up..GeminiCoupe wrote: As for the vac lines, the diagram Alex gave me helped but at the same time it didnt. The drivers side is an ABSOLUTE MESS. Can anyone get me pics of theirs so i can work off that?
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Should see mine, it IS a complete mess. I might have to drive it down and take a look at one of bobs but the way its running i dont think ill be able to get out the driveway.
Doubt its the timing making that noise, its definately not pinging [theres no load on it] but ill be retiming the dizzy anyway as i think thats contributing to my idle problems. It was 10BTDC with the vac line disconnected right? Coolerpiping is also mcfucked, might need to replace some of the rubber seals [ones off the turbo] with silicon hose as their pretty well rooted.
Cant leave the two wires bridged permanantly as it trys to engage the starter motor as soon as the key is in the on Position and wont disengage it until they are removed. Might just have to wire upa Type R start button..
Nick-
Doubt its the timing making that noise, its definately not pinging [theres no load on it] but ill be retiming the dizzy anyway as i think thats contributing to my idle problems. It was 10BTDC with the vac line disconnected right? Coolerpiping is also mcfucked, might need to replace some of the rubber seals [ones off the turbo] with silicon hose as their pretty well rooted.
Cant leave the two wires bridged permanantly as it trys to engage the starter motor as soon as the key is in the on Position and wont disengage it until they are removed. Might just have to wire upa Type R start button..
Nick-
project - 76 Gemini Coupe G200z EFI Turbo
daily - 02 S15 Nissan 200SX GTspecS Turbo
wet-weather fun toy - TX 75 Gemini Sedan G200z
daily - 02 S15 Nissan 200SX GTspecS Turbo
wet-weather fun toy - TX 75 Gemini Sedan G200z
That's wierd, wiring diagram for auto and manual is exactly the same for the starter except for the switch on the starter relay ground with auto..
Yeah it's 10 degrees without vac connected. If the cam and ignition timing is correct you might wanna run the ECU self diagnostics to see if any sensors aren't working.
Yeah it's 10 degrees without vac connected. If the cam and ignition timing is correct you might wanna run the ECU self diagnostics to see if any sensors aren't working.
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Cam timing is spot on, so rapt with it
I think ill need to sort the vac issues out first before i worry about the self diagnostics. All sensors etc are from the red car which was running fine, even with the leaky headgasket.
Going down to the car 2morrow so i might even get some vid footage.
Nick-
I think ill need to sort the vac issues out first before i worry about the self diagnostics. All sensors etc are from the red car which was running fine, even with the leaky headgasket.
Going down to the car 2morrow so i might even get some vid footage.
Nick-
project - 76 Gemini Coupe G200z EFI Turbo
daily - 02 S15 Nissan 200SX GTspecS Turbo
wet-weather fun toy - TX 75 Gemini Sedan G200z
daily - 02 S15 Nissan 200SX GTspecS Turbo
wet-weather fun toy - TX 75 Gemini Sedan G200z
- GeminiCoupe
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Had abit of a play around today, some things are better some things are worse. It now idles! Just not very well, still misfires and carries on like its got a cam in there - note i still havent timed it properly, just played with the dizzy till it would stay on. Sorted some more of the vac lines out however i have more vac lines in the car then it does on Alex's diagram which is very weird.
I have 3 wires unplugged that run off the same little "loom" as the oil pressure sender. They are :
-yellow w/black, female spade connector
-yellow w/black female spade connector, attached to a green w/red wire???
-red w/white wire that has its own little plug.
Also unplugged/fucked up is a wire that runs along the firewall - its a black wire earthed to the firewall just above the rocker cover, bout 4" long and its supposed to plug into a black wire that runs across the drivers side then along the firewall. Ive got those two wires, problem is they both are male connections?
Another problem is the alternator wasnt charging, so i went to tighten the b post terminal and...shorted the car out, so now i think ive fucked the alt. Also having problems with the starter motor cutting in and out, found that to be a loose wire which i *think* runs to the solenoid on the starter [same thing that the red power wire from the battery runs too]. Managed to find the two wires that needed briding though, starts all good now. Turbo return line has also somehow worked its way loose, fucked if i know how. Other then that getting there.
Pipes are all tight now, its stopped smoking from both the exhaust and the manifold [assuming the gasket sealant has worn off] so its looking good. Sounds alot "busier" in the engine department [more mechanical noise?], might have to record it on camera so someone can tell me if its normal or not.
Nick-
I have 3 wires unplugged that run off the same little "loom" as the oil pressure sender. They are :
-yellow w/black, female spade connector
-yellow w/black female spade connector, attached to a green w/red wire???
-red w/white wire that has its own little plug.
Also unplugged/fucked up is a wire that runs along the firewall - its a black wire earthed to the firewall just above the rocker cover, bout 4" long and its supposed to plug into a black wire that runs across the drivers side then along the firewall. Ive got those two wires, problem is they both are male connections?
Another problem is the alternator wasnt charging, so i went to tighten the b post terminal and...shorted the car out, so now i think ive fucked the alt. Also having problems with the starter motor cutting in and out, found that to be a loose wire which i *think* runs to the solenoid on the starter [same thing that the red power wire from the battery runs too]. Managed to find the two wires that needed briding though, starts all good now. Turbo return line has also somehow worked its way loose, fucked if i know how. Other then that getting there.
Pipes are all tight now, its stopped smoking from both the exhaust and the manifold [assuming the gasket sealant has worn off] so its looking good. Sounds alot "busier" in the engine department [more mechanical noise?], might have to record it on camera so someone can tell me if its normal or not.
Nick-
project - 76 Gemini Coupe G200z EFI Turbo
daily - 02 S15 Nissan 200SX GTspecS Turbo
wet-weather fun toy - TX 75 Gemini Sedan G200z
daily - 02 S15 Nissan 200SX GTspecS Turbo
wet-weather fun toy - TX 75 Gemini Sedan G200z
Just noticed that diagram doesn't include the cruise control thingo, and there's a 3rd one of those vacuum/boost switches like the ones towards the left on that diagram.
Is there actually a plug on your loom for the oil pressure sender? Mine doesn't have one..
Sure they're spade connectors not bullets? I see alot of bullet connectors with yellow wires on my loom.
Those black wires are both engine earth wires. One connects to the lead holder one one side of the rocker cover and the other goes to the other lead holder.
Bit noisey? Did you do the valve clearances?
Is there actually a plug on your loom for the oil pressure sender? Mine doesn't have one..
Sure they're spade connectors not bullets? I see alot of bullet connectors with yellow wires on my loom.
Those black wires are both engine earth wires. One connects to the lead holder one one side of the rocker cover and the other goes to the other lead holder.
Bit noisey? Did you do the valve clearances?
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Valve clearances were set by the engineering company that machined the head for me, as far as i can tell its pretty spot on as the valves are silent at idle. When i say noisy it gets loud under throttle - not engine note loud, more like angry mechanical loud. Could be normal - meh.
Yeah there is a plug for the oil press sender - its on the low side of the block on the drivers side right? ive got like a little loom [black plug, 4 or 5 pin IIRC] and the oil pressure sender runs off that - theres a bullet style connection and then the spade that goes on top of the sensor is covered by a rubber boot. Not sure what the other wires are for though, im pretty sure there is a sensor on the lower part of the inlet manifold next to a vac block thats unplugged - what sensor is it and which wire?
Nick-
Yeah there is a plug for the oil press sender - its on the low side of the block on the drivers side right? ive got like a little loom [black plug, 4 or 5 pin IIRC] and the oil pressure sender runs off that - theres a bullet style connection and then the spade that goes on top of the sensor is covered by a rubber boot. Not sure what the other wires are for though, im pretty sure there is a sensor on the lower part of the inlet manifold next to a vac block thats unplugged - what sensor is it and which wire?
Nick-
project - 76 Gemini Coupe G200z EFI Turbo
daily - 02 S15 Nissan 200SX GTspecS Turbo
wet-weather fun toy - TX 75 Gemini Sedan G200z
daily - 02 S15 Nissan 200SX GTspecS Turbo
wet-weather fun toy - TX 75 Gemini Sedan G200z