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Where is the bell housing lol

It's around the dinga.
Usually there is a thrust bearing too. Others may have a spigot but they don't like being un-lubed.

For Japs that don't understand, I'm talking about the crutch.

Ignore him Chris he is ubsessed with his crutch.
The bell housing is the front part of the gearbox that attaches to the engine.

The clutch fork is the black lever that sticks out the side of the gearbox that the slave cylinder pushes on. That is the bit you need to push to check if the clutch itself is free to operate.

Push in the direction of the arrow

if you would of made that picture any smaller, I would need a microscope. I assume though, you are talking about what I was touching in the first place (see my last pic)

I thought I was the one with the old eyes. I can do better if you want, clearer and bigger. The bit you have your finger on in the last picture is the rubber dust seal of the slave cylinder. The bit I suggest you try the pushing on is the big steel bit hanging out the gearbox through the rubber boot that is pushed by the bit you have your finger on.

Looks like I may have been barking up the right tree in the first place Wedgy, like you, I think it would be very unusual for a master or slave cylinder to completely seize unless the car had been parked 20,000 leagues under the sea and left for several years.
My money would be on a mechanical seizure rather than a hydraulic one. If I had any.

Thanks for all the help guys. However with my luck and given my past, once I start unscrewing things they wont go back together. Called a tow truck today and shipped it down the road to the mechanic.

Lets hope this is not going to end up like my silver one

Got my baby back today. And bamm it drives like the day Ive gotten it. So it wasn't the fuel or anything.

Got the Clutch Master & Slave Reconditioned at a place here in melbourne and they have done a fantastic job = $202.07 AUD. Also the petrol leak has been fixed, a few vacuum issues and now its back to 18psi boost. Main reason I've lost power was I had only 80 compression on cyl 2 compared to 130 on the others which has been fixed by adjusting the valve clearance and tighten the tappets. Also the mechanic fitted a new ignition coil ( $60 ) which made also a heap of difference. Perhaps we should start a topic somewhere called "Mechanics you can/ can not trust with your piazza". Out of the 4 times over the years I have brought my piazza's to a mechanic, this one has to be a1 and was a pleasure to deal with.

Anyway, I am thinking of selling myn now

Ouch! Compression increased via valve adjustment - not good for the valves (especially if exhaust - blowby etc).
However that is something I am aware of on my Wasp - the last two valve adjustments have seen the exhaust at nearly 0mm clearance (G161-OHV). I'm wondering if the cam lobes are wearing off/down (I never ran in the reground cam when I reco'd the engine 170,000 km ago.)

At least it's not a Desmo (they do not take kindly to -ve valve clearances LOL!).


I wonder what IgCoil he bought? It's hard beating the old RB Gemini (etc) blue coil - especially with its ignitor! (The ignitor handles 0.3-0.4 Ohm Bosch MEC 717 etc coils!) (Both available from PAP for $8...)