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Overheating

Posted: Sun Jan 15, 2006 11:00 pm
by Chris
Havn't got the car as of yet but like to gather some ideas.

The water in the overflow bottle is bubbling hence water is veporizing, the oil is escaping but no visible oil leaks or drops. (Havn't looked at the excaust yet if oil comes out).

So trick question,

a) Radiator is fucked?
b) Temp sensor stuffed?
c) Cracked Head.

I did check the oil today and cant smell or see coolant/water mixed within the oil. Though if it is a cracked head only at the last days the milky oil will show up.


Another thing is, the turbo is to believe to be gone.. Has anyone got a spare one?

Cheers,

Chris

Posted: Sun Jan 15, 2006 11:35 pm
by Rodeobob
If air is bubbling in the coolant when the motor is running theres compression getting into the coolant. Either the gasket is stuffed or the head is cracked.


If the turbo is stuffed the oil could be going into the motor and getting burnt.
Its either that or its in the water. Again thats the gasket or the head is cracked.


Bob.

Posted: Mon Jan 16, 2006 1:01 am
by Chris
Well golum reckons the turbo stop charging all of a sudden when he drove it last time..

So apart from the turbo problems could it still be radiator problems or temp sensor though it wouldnt make sense the oil is going

Posted: Mon Jan 16, 2006 2:33 am
by Bugle
Yeah apart from the head gasket being stuffed something had to cause it to overheat in the first place. So maybe the radiator is stuffed and blocked up if you can't see any obvious leaks from blown hoses. Owner of mine before me had it overheat which would have fucked the gasket but he got the radiator re-cored then the gasket blew completely. I haven't had any overheating problems since.

Posted: Mon Jan 16, 2006 11:21 am
by GeminiCoupe
At this point your going to have to take the head off, so until then you wont know the exact cause of the overheating. Head will ofcourse have to be checked/crack tested, possibly shaved. You were a mechanic right? You should be able to do it, a slab of beer and a weekend or two at home in the garage. Once the heads back on you'll have to go through sorting out why it went in the first place. While the head is off look for obvious things like blocked water galleries, a fucked thermostat [id change it anyway], fucked hoses etc etc. Get the radiator pressure tested, if you need a new one apparently a VL item is identical, only different i can remember is the weired Piazza angled rod/bracket. Ask bartaman, he has one in his Piazza. That would probably take care of cooling.

The turbo is abit more fun-era. Either rebuild the stock one or go for a bigger one. What you want out of the car and how much you want to spend tight ass :finga: Remember my/bugles comment about buying a good one for 5k or buying one for 2k and spending 3 on it? Now it makes sence ah? lol

Cheers,

Nick-

Posted: Mon Jan 16, 2006 5:41 pm
by Chris
hey I bought the red one in Adelaide for $4000 with t3 and all the schenanigans and still blew the rear main and a few front timing/crank seals.

So I just reckon putting a bigger trubo on a stock 4zc1 isnt the best idea as it will blow something sometime.. Need to rebuilt the engine, replace the seals with the good once and not the once from repco.

Posted: Mon Jan 16, 2006 9:21 pm
by wedgenut
Not much of an offer but if it turns out your head is toast and is gonna cost mega bucks I have an option. I have a head here that isn't cracked but it does have a stuffed second cam journal. That is all that is wrong with it and it could be repaired and re tunnelled. Not a cheap job but may be cheaper than if yours has gone all soft and porous. You can have it for the cost of postage....bear it in mind buddy.

Posted: Tue Jan 17, 2006 1:25 am
by Rodeobob
You can get the soft/porous thing fixed easy enough. They heat treat the head and apparently it comes up like new.

While youve got the head off id pull the radiator out and send it away to get a good seeing too.

Dont get excited about the turbo till youve got it off and youve had a feel. Might be as simple as putting a kit thru it. I never got a quote on that but i can tell you that a re core will cost you over 1K. Thats everything new between the housing including the wheels only available in water cooled.

You can use a Subaru or Mazda/Ford RHB5 as well. Just put the Piazza exhaust housing on it and have an adapter made (or make your own) for the inlet. It will give you a pretty high clearance in the exhaist housing so it wont boost that well but from what im told i will work. Ive got one in the shed but havent put it on the car yet.

While youve got the head off and all the gear out of the way id take the time to replace all the rubber hoses for the turbo and the heater etc.


Cheers. Bob.