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This would be interesting
www.isuzuperformance.com/isupage/tech/engswap2.6.html :lol:

already read it and tought bout it. but by the looks of things (just ruff measurements i will look more into it at a later date) the crank and rods will fit straight in to a 4zc1 so it would look stock but really ba a 2.6, that way no engineers will be required

I heard the Holden Rodeo blocks arnt hard to put in.


Just an idea.

You can't use the crank and rods in a 4ZC1 block because the 4ZE1 has higher deck height..

just on this topic I have just brought myself a 4zd1.I did get a 4ze1 but an offer can up to buy it to good to refuse so i will have to use the 4zd1 now. no matter i have done some reseach and found that the 4ze1 crank and rods will fit into the 4zd1 and depending on how much I over bore should bring it up to about 2.4 lts. hopefully it wont take long to build.

The only reason you would put the E1/D1 crank and rods etc into a C1 would be to get around the need for an engineers certificate. Another way around this is to simply get the E1 block restamped with the engine number from the C1. Illegal but common.

Nick-

The only other reason i would think you would do it for would be to try and get back toward a square bore and stroke combo.

i did think about the restamping method but no matter what it is still written on the side of the block so unless i grind the e of and try to weld a c in it's place it can still be picked up.

In NSW (dunno about other states) you could put a 4ZD1 in legally I think. The rules say you can't go more than 15% over without getting an engineer cert. 4ZD1 is under 15% over a 4ZC1's displacement.

I thought it was 10%, maybe thats just vic.

You can just stamp on the 2L number. The engine number on an E1 block is on the rear flange for the bellhousing looking down from the top under the exhaust manifold. Not on the top of the block on the inlet manifold side. The bit is there but its blank. I think Isuzu changed it because the number can easily be erased by decking the block.
Ive bought three motors and couldnt find an engine number stamped in to any of em. lol. Just looking in the wrong spot.

With all the crap bolted up to the motor you cant see the E1 cast into the side of the block. It would be even more so in a Piazza as theres no room once the turbo is bolted up. You cant see the back of the head either.

You can legally put the 2.6 in the piazza up here in Queensland.

Top state that one. The alloy sump on the 2.6 even clears the croos member so you dont have to change the sump and pick up tube.

Matt

Probably wouldn't be a problem getting a 2.6 engineered anyway might just need a front brake upgrade.

Id doubt it on the brake up grade. Um Mr Engineer the commodore had a 5L motor and it has the same sized brakes and it weighs more. Thats what id be saying. lol.

just on the point of not being abale (don't think i spelled it right) to run the e1 crank and rods in the c1 block. my mate who is the engine reconditioner just had to rebuild a piazza engine the other day (not my thank f$%k). when they went to rebuild the engine they noticed that the pistons pretruded past the deck height due to a previous rebuild where someone had shaved the deck upping the compression and making the pistion go bang. they knew that it is hard to get piazza parts expecially blocks so they done some hunting and found a shim plate for a piazza. a shime plate is what is used when the block has been shaved to much or someone is looking to lower the compression without a full engine rebuild with pistions and or taking out the combustion chambers of the head. it is a metal plate that sits between the block and head. so depending on how much bigger the e1's stroke is the e1 cranks and rods can be ran in the c1 block with a shim plate and keep the comp ratio normal and it will still look like and standard 4zc1

Take your head gasket to an engine reconditioner and he will get you a head shim to suit. they are usually in copper and thickness as required. Use the correct selant (engine recon man will supply) to seal around the water jacket holes between the block and the shim only. Then fit gasket as normal. It is common practice where head and block have been skimmed to return to std compression. It is also a wise thing to do for dropping compression when sticking a turbo on a non turbo engine. The nasty way is to top the pistons but that only weakens them.